Direct North Ridge, 7/4/97
East Face, 8/26/00
East Ridge, solo, 7/27/06
Cathedral Traverse, via East Face, 8/13-14/08
Summitted, but early altitude sickness ended what is probably one of the more pathetic attempts at the Grand Traverse in recorded history.
Solo ascent, like most of my ventures. Climbed base to summit in just over 4hrs...would've been less, but I spent an hour futzing around looking for the route. Only one pitch with any real exposure, but it was enough to make things interesting...oh yes. And downclimbing it was even more exciting. At least the rock was firm. Magnificent, unique view from the summit. LOOONG way down, hard on the knees. Met three parties on the descent, all real friendly folks. My car was an oven when I got back.
This is a LONG day climb with a lot of elevation gain, but very fun. Great views of the range from up close. As stated in the overview page, the climb/descent is definately at the hard end of Class 4 (at least for me).
My wife and I spent our first anniversary on Teewinot. The route is not recommended for pure climbing, but the adventurous nature is hard to match. The entire bit across the North Face is loose and scary, with marginal protection in the shattered rock. We spent so much time on the summit collecting ourselves that we descended the East Face in the dark.
The East Ridge route is a very nice rock climb (5.4) with the same easy approach as the East Face. The difficulty can be varied according to how closely one follows the ridge crest.
Climbed to the summit as a simul-solo with David Kozak in 10 hrs car-to-car. Route finding was a bit tricky and we ended up slightly off route on some terrain which was probably 5th class. There were two short sections of very compact snow which were quite tedious but tolerable in approach shoes. The descent was the hardest part since there were sustained sections of exposed class 4 climbing which required careful attention. Very nice summit with great views and a nice photo opportunity on the very sharp summit pinnacle.