Jim and I "enjoyed" Contact Crack and even more so the scary ass off-width crack to the summit block. Thank goodness there was an easier way down! Great snow conditions made the trek in and out pleasant. Ridiculous views from summit!
Car to car. Got off route and ended up doing some much harder climbing. A long day but great route. Must go back and do the Sun Ribbon and Dark Star.
Unbelievable arete. Great day with Mark. Tyrolean Traverse took awhile to set up - until we tried throwing 2 coils at the block at the same time.
X3 - Also climbed Moon Goddess with Scott in 7/1989 (dangerous route and not very fun).
And Venusian Blind with Chris in 2006. This was a very good route.
Part of the Sierra Challenge. With Ephrat, Sean, and Adam
Cold but otherwise reasonable conditions. Got off route for pitches 6-9 or so (note that in the supertopo topo, the numbers mark the *starts* of pitches, not the ends..). Full moon!
09/14/13 via Sun Ribbon Arete continued to the summit.
09/15/13 via Venusian Blind... this time we didn't continue to the summit but doing the route deserves a tick date
via Contact Pass. Plenty of fun pinnacles and notches along the crest to Mt Gayley. One notch had rap slings but can be down climbed (easy 5th class). Some spots felt like climbing a house of cards with some loose stacked rocks but that's Sierra climbing. Also many solid knife edge ridges. Downclimbed the big notch just before the headwall up Mt Gayley than hiked back to 3rd lake via Sam Mac.
From camp at the pass with Alvin W
complex peak, very amazing. via dark star one day, then sun ribbon the next. the rock is not as bad as hyped...
Did Dark Star on 8/5/11 to the summit and next day (8/6/2011) Sun Ribbon to the top of the route (my partner went up to the summit while I began the descent towards contact pass, it was starting to get dark). Great experience with an awesome partner, learned a lot on these climbs. Very happy not to bivy on my first true grade V and IV climbs. Ability to simul climb most of these helped a lot. Temple Crag is a beautiful mountain, wish the rock was great everywhere like on the arête of Sun Ribbon.
Climbed on a perfect summer day with Justing from a camp at Third Lake.
After a casual stroll in over some snow on the last day of March, April Fools Day was spent on the lower portion of Venusian Blind Arete. We forgot that casual approaches shouldn't cross over to the climb; a late start and intriguing mixed climbing and snow-covered rock lead to lots of climbing ropeless with crampons. And then climbing roped with crampons. And then eventually makin a call that bivying on a route is not an option, we opted to bail and rap.
From camp at Third Lake. Climbed Mount Winchell the following day.
Mostly a snow climb... need a pencil for the register
Kind of a yawner from that side. Must do Venusian Blind.
Absolutely fantastic climb! Started from our camp between 2nd & 3rd lakes. Rob got the first lead, starting up the diedre at 8.32. We made good time, simul'ing where possible.
Tyrolean was a kick in the ass- did the lasso thang after 3 or so attempts (we got it the first time, but rope came off after attempts to reposition).
Felt raindrops on the crux, which made things more interesting! Did the L, crack variation- sustained & fun! Wished at the time I would have brought a 3.5 or 4 Camalot, but it turned out fine.
Right after the 2nd rappel a bolt of lightning struck the Moon Goddess & it started to sleet- this was definitely the most interesting part of the climb! We put all the metal stuff in a pile away from us, & waited it out. Beautiful double rainbow ensued.
Rob did a brilliant job of leading the following off-width wet (!). Some more simul'ing & we were at the top at 16.00. Storms around us led to the tough decision to forego the summit (this time!).
Descent back to camp was uneventful. One of the finest climbs I've done- money.
Nice route. Topped out in hail and thunder, sorry summit see you some other time!
Very short 4th/5.2 section, followed by much boulder hopping. Darkstar arete looks awesome!
Retreated ~50 vertical feet from the top due to a sudden onset of vertigo.
Oh, well. No regrets.....
Venusian Blind Arete (IV 5.7) - August 2, 2009 - Arrived in Big Pine on Friday night to realize that Mary had forgotten her approach shoes (even though I asked twice if she had them as we were leaving Fresno). After breakfast in Bishop, and a new pair of women's Guide Tennies at Wilson's, we hiked in to a camp at Second Lake on Saturday. We got an early start on Sunday and had no trouble finding the start of the route. The topo description of the pitch immediately after the R-facing corners was ambiguous and I found the climbing pretty scary. Afterwards, we had no problems following the topo. There were some fantastic pitches, but the overall looseness of the climb detracted from the experience significantly. The descent was no problem, but Mary struggled on the talus. I'm glad I did this one, but I'm not in any hurry to go back.
Moon Goddess Arete (IV 5.8) - June 20, 2010 - Patrick Odonnel and I made an early season trip to climb Moon Goddess. We camped in basically the same spot that Mary and I did the previous season. I was happy to have crampons for the snowfield this time. Very similar to Venusian Blind with a few harder cruxes, but generally less sustained than Venusian Blind. We climbed the route in about 6 hours and descended back to the tent in 2 hours. The snow on the descent made for fun, fast boot glissading. We hiked out the same night and I was back in Fresno before midnight.