Ten Minute Shift, 5.11b

2nd Pitch- 80’- 5.11b/ This is a sustained pitch at the grade but well protected. The first ¾’s of the pitch involves quite a few balancing moves. Right from the belay you must mantle up onto a curving ramp. A good finger ledge shows up after almost any hard move to help you advance up the pitch. Continue up this series of curving foot ledges until below the roof above. The roof offers a meter wide under-cling with nothing on top. Move left with the under-cling as you stem your feet until you can make the crux move of the route, a high reach into a finger crack. Place a piece of gear and make for the fixed belay at the base of the flaring chimney up and right.
Ten Minute Shift, 5.11b, 5 Pitches, North Brownstone Wall, Juniper Peak, Red Rock, February, 2011

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AndyHansen - Apr 2, 2012 12:33 am - Hasn't voted

Pitch 2

Dow, on your high opinion of this route I went out and climbed it. I thought the climbing was fantastic but was less than psyched on the quality of the rock on this pitch. Everything leading up to the roof is bullet proof and awesome. But, I pulled out a softball size chunk from the roof while underclinging. Also, I thought the move up to the bomber finger lock was a little desperate with not much for feet. All in all, I thought it was a good route and I really appreciated your beta on the route. Keep up the good work!

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Apr 2, 2012 12:58 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Pitch 2

thanks Andy...I don't remember any choss in the under cling...but do remember liking this route quite a bit....I mentioned to Rob how I wanted to jump on the thread about Hand Bone on MP...some idiot going on about searching for new hard cracks...yet had not climbed any existing ones...unfortunately I have yet to do Handbone so let it be..but I have passed under it on my way to other routes....short or not, it looks like a stellar crack...hope to on it someday...cheers

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