Hi. I know your climb was three years ago, but I'm curious about potential avalanche danger. I've never done Kings, and I would like to bag a true winter ascent. Avy conditions are terrible this year, but from what I can tell, the typical Gunsight Pass approach does not involve ascending terrain over 30% until the ridge itself. Do you, or does anyone else have an opinion? I and my team have avalanche training, but we'd prefer not to use it...
Hi Andy, I'm no expert in avalanche science so I'll preface my opinion about Henry's Fork and King's Peak in winter by saying never underestimate where a slide could occur. With that, I believe ascending King's Peak from Henry's Fork via gunsight Pass is very safe in winter, and slides on that route are very unlikely. The reason, from what I have seen, is the pass is always so wind scoured that there is never enough accumulation of snow to cause a slide. Same with the King's mountain itself. The most dangerous section of route is the traverse from Gunsight Pass over to Anderson flats, up over a very steep slope with very real potential for a painful slip and slide down several hundred feet over exposed rocks. As winter ascents go, avalanche will be the least of your concerns on King's Peak.
Also with somewhat limited avalance knowledge, I'll chime in and back up Matt's thinking that the slope up to Gunsight pass seems fairly safe to me. The short portion of the route immediately after Gunsight Pass is where I would be most concerned. I've only been on the route once in the Winter, but this slope definitely made me nervous. If conditions were less than ideal, I have no doubt this slope could slide.
I'm just curious why you didn't bring a lightweight stove to just boil some snow for water? Just not enough time before it got dark on the peak? Great report. That sounds like a tough trek.
vanman798 - Apr 14, 2009 5:10 pm - Voted 10/10
CongratulationsCongratulations on both an exceptional physical accomplishment and a well-written piece.
vanman798 - Apr 14, 2009 5:18 pm - Voted 10/10
What Type of Skies Did You Use?Matt, you mention "another who was getting nowhere fast on heavy alpine touring gear".
So what type of skies did you use?
Matthew Van Horn - Apr 14, 2009 9:46 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: What Type of Skies Did You Use?Thanks Walter. I rented light back-country CC types from REI. They worked very well.
andyhowell - Feb 26, 2012 10:49 pm - Hasn't voted
Avalanche dangerHi. I know your climb was three years ago, but I'm curious about potential avalanche danger. I've never done Kings, and I would like to bag a true winter ascent. Avy conditions are terrible this year, but from what I can tell, the typical Gunsight Pass approach does not involve ascending terrain over 30% until the ridge itself. Do you, or does anyone else have an opinion? I and my team have avalanche training, but we'd prefer not to use it...
Matthew Van Horn - Feb 27, 2012 12:48 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Avalanche dangerHi Andy, I'm no expert in avalanche science so I'll preface my opinion about Henry's Fork and King's Peak in winter by saying never underestimate where a slide could occur. With that, I believe ascending King's Peak from Henry's Fork via gunsight Pass is very safe in winter, and slides on that route are very unlikely. The reason, from what I have seen, is the pass is always so wind scoured that there is never enough accumulation of snow to cause a slide. Same with the King's mountain itself. The most dangerous section of route is the traverse from Gunsight Pass over to Anderson flats, up over a very steep slope with very real potential for a painful slip and slide down several hundred feet over exposed rocks. As winter ascents go, avalanche will be the least of your concerns on King's Peak.
Joseph Bullough - Feb 27, 2012 8:13 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Avalanche dangerAlso with somewhat limited avalance knowledge, I'll chime in and back up Matt's thinking that the slope up to Gunsight pass seems fairly safe to me. The short portion of the route immediately after Gunsight Pass is where I would be most concerned. I've only been on the route once in the Winter, but this slope definitely made me nervous. If conditions were less than ideal, I have no doubt this slope could slide.
johnplocher - Nov 11, 2012 1:04 pm - Hasn't voted
Why not boil water?I'm just curious why you didn't bring a lightweight stove to just boil some snow for water? Just not enough time before it got dark on the peak? Great report. That sounds like a tough trek.