jstanley - Jun 23, 2018 8:47 am Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2018
Above the Clouds
Some route finding issues and falling through a snow bridge added excitement as well as time to the hike. The mountain goats were neither shy nor bothersome. Fine view from the summit of other high Olympic Peaks piercing the cloud deck.
No pass or cash, I parked a quarter mile past the Lena Lake TH. Left the car at 5:00am, got to the burned section past the climber camp at 7:40 and the top at 9:40. Stayed about 25 and then back down. Back at the car at 2:30pm. No snow, okay weather, but clouds rolled in while at the top and parts of the rock were still wet from the rain the day before. No problems with rockfall, but I was the only one up there. Passed 3 other people going up, but otherwise quiet for a holiday weekend.
Crazy-crowded at Lena Lake, and crazy-hot on the south-facing climb. Absolutely no snow anywhere, but great salmonberries. Trip report.
Ian Culhane - Jun 8, 2015 5:51 pm Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2015
Route finding problems
A lack of snow and route finding skills made this a much harder climb than I had initially anticipated. We started going off course about a mile past Climbers Camp, and ended up scrambling up various gullies (all too far to the right of the correct one) until we reached the top at around 2:30. Descended via the correct route; there are a number of cairns marking the path, though it's important to pay attention as to not lose them. Back at the parking lot by 9:15, much later than expected. Still a great climb and an amazing view (albeit a bit hazy); hoping to come back and do it when a glissade is possible.
pnwyatt - Jun 2, 2015 4:44 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 2015
South-no snow
Good climb. Lots and lots of loose rock and scree. The route was marked pretty well until around the hourglass. Last call for water is in the meadow just before the burn area unless you want to chance the little bit of run off higher up. Route finding for the summit block took a few minutes.
Helmet is highly recommended, ended up dodging quite a few widow makers.
Euphonia - Dec 18, 2014 6:41 pm Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2014
South
South Brother only. Will be back to do the traverse! Date is approximate.
setrent - Jun 3, 2014 2:27 am Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2014
North and South
On the traverse. Best done early season south to north. Conditions dependent, but a classic mountaineering outing.
coonrad - Aug 20, 2013 7:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2013
Having unsuccessfully climbed it once, I tried to drag my brother up the mountain. More sure of the route this time, we made good time - and had less snow to deal with. At the top we got onto some really loose scree and didn't feel comfortable with the terrain. The mountain goat first following us then climbing above us and dropping rocks down didn't help either. Turned back less than 500 feet from the summit. Third time will be the charm, I hope?
Intended to climb the 'standard' route but wasted a good three hours scrambling up to and along cliff faces east of the main snow-filled gully and so ran out of time and energy when we finally got to the Lunch Rock area and so turned back.
andrew david - Feb 17, 2013 3:11 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2012
Hellish but Awesome
Went solo and had the devil's own time keeping to the "trail" through burned areas and worse. Cooled off in some ice caves, was stalked by a horny female goat, did some wet cliff climbing repeatedly when I decided the trail was finished (it goes to the summit actually so watch very carefully for cairns), and was beat by the end, but glad I did it in hindsight. Will post a trip report very soon and that will help any future adventurers. The topo I had was of zero help.
drdown - Nov 23, 2012 1:20 am Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2012
Lena Lake
Went late in the year. There was no snow left on the entire route so I ended up soloing a section to bipass the hourglass. Scrambling took me out of the fog line and onto the summit to a great view!
olygtx06 - Sep 22, 2012 12:54 pm Date Climbed: May 24, 2009
Actually my second ascent, the first was about a year before and we camped at the head to the Valley of the Silent Men; the peak was so socked in that i decided to come back in better weather. Solo in a day made for a pretty exhausting trip but the glissade down was fun.
You guys weren't kidding when you said route finding could be tricky! I decided on this as a day trip at the last second after deciding against an overnighter I had been planning so I didn't have as much time to research the route as I would have liked. The trail up to climber's camp was super easy. Once I got to the gully I started heading up and got to the hourglass. I had read that when in doubt, head right so that's what I did.
The terrain started to get steep but I found a cairn so I figured I was on the right track. After some more class 3-low class 5 scrambling I was thinking "where the **** am I going here" but I found another cairn, and another so I though I must be doing something right. I figured I was off route but kept going until I got to a 30-40 foot rock wall (rated at 5.4 I found out after I got back, route 2A) and stopped there 100 feet or less short of the summit. I could have scrambled up relative easily as the rock was great and holds were plentiful but I was solo and have a family to support, so I called it a day and headed back down. I tried to downclimb a little and work my way back left to see if I could still find a way to summit but ran into a goat and it's kid blocking the way. Not wanting to deal with angry goats, I just headed back to the car. I will be back though, best scrambling in the Olympics in my opinion. 10 hours 15 minutes car to car.
chasegru - May 29, 2012 11:11 pm Date Climbed: May 27, 2012
From Meadows
3:00 start from the meadows. Snow starting at East Lena Fork Campground. Soft snow below the Hourglass, solid snow/ice above. On top by 6:30.
Did this almost 7 years ago. Amazing climb but couldn't see anything when I got to the top. Need to go back up and get the full view!
Jake Robinson - Mar 19, 2012 2:03 am Date Climbed: Oct 16, 2010
Great Climb
Car-camped at Lena Lake trailhead. 12 hours car-to-car with great weather. Fun climb!
santanoni - Jan 13, 2012 12:04 pm Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2011
First Failed, then Success
Did a little climb trip to the Olympics. Road closure meant I tried S. Brother the first day instead of Mt Stone, which I had planned. I fell short by about 1000-1300 ft in a true soup of a fog where I could not find the route. trying again on the final day, this time after camping at Lena lakes to get a head start, I made it. It was not the clearest day, but I actually saw my boot prints from where I went wrong three days earlier. I had climber up through an hourglass like formation, which was quite steep.
relic - Sep 30, 2011 11:06 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 1997
jstanley - Jun 23, 2018 8:47 am Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2018
Above the CloudsSome route finding issues and falling through a snow bridge added excitement as well as time to the hike. The mountain goats were neither shy nor bothersome. Fine view from the summit of other high Olympic Peaks piercing the cloud deck.
jm141302 - Sep 5, 2016 11:25 pm Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2016
Day HikeNo pass or cash, I parked a quarter mile past the Lena Lake TH. Left the car at 5:00am, got to the burned section past the climber camp at 7:40 and the top at 9:40. Stayed about 25 and then back down. Back at the car at 2:30pm. No snow, okay weather, but clouds rolled in while at the top and parts of the rock were still wet from the rain the day before. No problems with rockfall, but I was the only one up there. Passed 3 other people going up, but otherwise quiet for a holiday weekend.
seano - Jul 8, 2015 2:18 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2015
Standard routeCrazy-crowded at Lena Lake, and crazy-hot on the south-facing climb. Absolutely no snow anywhere, but great salmonberries. Trip report.
Ian Culhane - Jun 8, 2015 5:51 pm Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2015
Route finding problemsA lack of snow and route finding skills made this a much harder climb than I had initially anticipated. We started going off course about a mile past Climbers Camp, and ended up scrambling up various gullies (all too far to the right of the correct one) until we reached the top at around 2:30. Descended via the correct route; there are a number of cairns marking the path, though it's important to pay attention as to not lose them. Back at the parking lot by 9:15, much later than expected. Still a great climb and an amazing view (albeit a bit hazy); hoping to come back and do it when a glissade is possible.
pnwyatt - Jun 2, 2015 4:44 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 2015
South-no snowGood climb. Lots and lots of loose rock and scree. The route was marked pretty well until around the hourglass. Last call for water is in the meadow just before the burn area unless you want to chance the little bit of run off higher up. Route finding for the summit block took a few minutes.
Helmet is highly recommended, ended up dodging quite a few widow makers.
Euphonia - Dec 18, 2014 6:41 pm Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2014
SouthSouth Brother only. Will be back to do the traverse! Date is approximate.
setrent - Jun 3, 2014 2:27 am Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2014
North and SouthOn the traverse. Best done early season south to north. Conditions dependent, but a classic mountaineering outing.
coonrad - Aug 20, 2013 7:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2013
epic viewFun climb. Love the Olympics.
Trip report: here.
ernestsson - Jun 11, 2013 2:07 am
Brothers on the BrothersHaving unsuccessfully climbed it once, I tried to drag my brother up the mountain. More sure of the route this time, we made good time - and had less snow to deal with. At the top we got onto some really loose scree and didn't feel comfortable with the terrain. The mountain goat first following us then climbing above us and dropping rocks down didn't help either. Turned back less than 500 feet from the summit. Third time will be the charm, I hope?
ernestsson - Jun 11, 2013 2:04 am
It's Always Routefinding That's the ProblemIntended to climb the 'standard' route but wasted a good three hours scrambling up to and along cliff faces east of the main snow-filled gully and so ran out of time and energy when we finally got to the Lunch Rock area and so turned back.
andrew david - Feb 17, 2013 3:11 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2012
Hellish but AwesomeWent solo and had the devil's own time keeping to the "trail" through burned areas and worse. Cooled off in some ice caves, was stalked by a horny female goat, did some wet cliff climbing repeatedly when I decided the trail was finished (it goes to the summit actually so watch very carefully for cairns), and was beat by the end, but glad I did it in hindsight. Will post a trip report very soon and that will help any future adventurers. The topo I had was of zero help.
drdown - Nov 23, 2012 1:20 am Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2012
Lena LakeWent late in the year. There was no snow left on the entire route so I ended up soloing a section to bipass the hourglass. Scrambling took me out of the fog line and onto the summit to a great view!
olygtx06 - Sep 22, 2012 12:54 pm Date Climbed: May 24, 2009
summit1x
jacobsmith - Sep 16, 2012 12:26 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2011
Brothers Solo In A DayActually my second ascent, the first was about a year before and we camped at the head to the Valley of the Silent Men; the peak was so socked in that i decided to come back in better weather. Solo in a day made for a pretty exhausting trip but the glissade down was fun.
awilsondc - Sep 3, 2012 3:12 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2012
Route finding failYou guys weren't kidding when you said route finding could be tricky! I decided on this as a day trip at the last second after deciding against an overnighter I had been planning so I didn't have as much time to research the route as I would have liked. The trail up to climber's camp was super easy. Once I got to the gully I started heading up and got to the hourglass. I had read that when in doubt, head right so that's what I did.
The terrain started to get steep but I found a cairn so I figured I was on the right track. After some more class 3-low class 5 scrambling I was thinking "where the **** am I going here" but I found another cairn, and another so I though I must be doing something right. I figured I was off route but kept going until I got to a 30-40 foot rock wall (rated at 5.4 I found out after I got back, route 2A) and stopped there 100 feet or less short of the summit. I could have scrambled up relative easily as the rock was great and holds were plentiful but I was solo and have a family to support, so I called it a day and headed back down. I tried to downclimb a little and work my way back left to see if I could still find a way to summit but ran into a goat and it's kid blocking the way. Not wanting to deal with angry goats, I just headed back to the car. I will be back though, best scrambling in the Olympics in my opinion. 10 hours 15 minutes car to car.
chasegru - May 29, 2012 11:11 pm Date Climbed: May 27, 2012
From Meadows3:00 start from the meadows. Snow starting at East Lena Fork Campground. Soft snow below the Hourglass, solid snow/ice above. On top by 6:30.
ExtremeD69 - Apr 17, 2012 8:00 am
Need to do again!!Did this almost 7 years ago. Amazing climb but couldn't see anything when I got to the top. Need to go back up and get the full view!
Jake Robinson - Mar 19, 2012 2:03 am Date Climbed: Oct 16, 2010
Great ClimbCar-camped at Lena Lake trailhead. 12 hours car-to-car with great weather. Fun climb!
santanoni - Jan 13, 2012 12:04 pm Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2011
First Failed, then SuccessDid a little climb trip to the Olympics. Road closure meant I tried S. Brother the first day instead of Mt Stone, which I had planned. I fell short by about 1000-1300 ft in a true soup of a fog where I could not find the route. trying again on the final day, this time after camping at Lena lakes to get a head start, I made it. It was not the clearest day, but I actually saw my boot prints from where I went wrong three days earlier. I had climber up through an hourglass like formation, which was quite steep.
relic - Sep 30, 2011 11:06 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 1997
Standard routeDate is a guess.