The crazy loop to Colden & Marcy

Overview

First, let's be clear about this route: it is for the adventurous hiker looking for thrills on a difficult but relatively safe journey on the mountain. It is not for everybody. Do not attempt this route if you are not somewhat skilled in rock climbing and/or have a solid experience in off-trail hiking. You must be prepared to face a good challenge and will be highly rewarded by the many highlights of this trek.


This route will take you from the Marcy Dam campground to the summit of Colden via Avalanche Pass, across Avalanche Lake, up the Trap Dike and the western main slide. Then down Colden via the eastern 1990 slide and up again to the summit of Marcy by the regular trails and back via Indian Falls to the Marcy Dam camping. About 12 miles. Quite a program.

One must be in excellent physical fitness since the climb of the Colden slide and the ascent of the Marcy trail are somewhat strenuous. Needless to say that the climb of the dike and the descent of the 1990 slide are potentially dangerous. If you are not mentally prepared to face impressive situations, do not attempt.

Getting There

The loop begins at Marcy Dam. To get there, you take the road that leads to the Adirondack Loj near the ski jumps on road 73 just outside of Keene.
At the lodge, you need to rent a bear canister according to Park regulations if you do not own one. From there, head for the Van Hoevenberg trailhead that leads to Marcy Dam where you can either take a good night rest in your tent or sleep in one of the many lean-tos in order to be on the spot and ready to go at first lights. If you intend to hike this loop on a week-end, getting to Marcy Dam on a friday is possible before nightfall since it is a relatively short 2.3 mile hike from the Loj.

Route Description

Take the yellow blazed trail up to Avalanche Camp that you reach after about a mile. There used to be a very popular lean-to sitting there but do not look for it as it has just been removed for revegetation purposes.

There, at the junction, follow the yellow blazed trail to Avalanche Lake. Just before entering Avalanche Pass, you will see at the foot of the northern end of Colden the remains of the 1999 slide that once blocked the entrance of the pass after hurricane Floyd. The top of the pass is now 30 feet higher than it used to be and is still quite impressive.

The ascent of Colden

Shortly after the first bridge on Avalanche Lake you will soon see a single rock emerging from the water on your left. At this point,you have hiked about 2.5 miles and climbed about 400 feet from Marcy Dam. This is where you cross the lake to get to the entrance of the Trap Dike. My girlfriend and I used kayak waterproof bags (thanks Anthony) to put our gears in and enjoyed a very nice swim in the early morning. I suggest you land on the far left shore bank since it is where the actual route up the dike is starting.

Then, begin your climb step by step up the dike. You will be amazed at the many views you get going up as Avalanche Lake shrinks before your eyes and Algonguin peak starts to rise in front of you. (Actually behind you)

There are two main steps in the dike that are actually pretty easy to climb. The only critical section of the dike is the waterfall climb at the crux. It is a 40 foot rock wall that you must climb in order to proceed to the other levels above. It is also your point of no return as it cannot be climbed back down. So, make sure everybody in your group can make it to the top before any climbing attempt. Right on top of the crux is a ledge where you can sit, let the adrenaline wear off and enjoy the view. Some say this is a class 4 climb, others a solid class 3. Either way, it can be done if you focus on what you're doing, can stay calm and have guts. Well worth it.

After the crux, the grade of the dike eases and there are many other easy but fun steps to climb before it is time to leave the dike. Keep watching very carefully on your right as you will see a tiny trail made by previous climbers that will take you out of the dike and onto the open slab of the 1942 Colden slide. When on the rock, keep moving across until you see a boulder at the top of the slide far far away. Head for it. This is the summit.

The descent of Colden

Once at the boulder on top of Colden, you have climbed about 2000 vertical feet and traveled close to a mile from Avalanche Lake. But you are not exactly at the peak which stands north of your position and used to be marked by a benchmark embedded in a rock just outside the main path on a short side trail. Unfortunately, it has been stolen and only the hole remains. So much for pictures...

Anyways, head left on the trail and keep looking to your right for a small herdpath that will lead you to the 1990 eastern slide. It is not obvious to see. You will encounter a huge boulder that is split in two. Then about 50 to 60 feet further, keep checking on the ground for a small tree that has been chopped with an axe right on the footpath. About 4 feet further lies the herdpath to your right. Go for it with extreme caution as you approach the beginning of the slide since the upper part is VERY STEEP, about 45 degrees incline. You may want to go forward, facing down and using your butt for brakes for that section, although I recommend going backward using your hands on the slab. The rock face is steep enough that even going down on all fours, you will almost be standing up...
After a while the grade of the slide eases a bit and you can definitely go forward using only your feet since the rock surface is very rough. Precautions are to be used if you have to go over wet surfaces. Then, the slide narrows and you mostly go down along a very pleasant brook with a few pools to dip in. Be very careful about the moss on the rocks and avoid at all cost.

Finally, the bottom of the slide takes you to a more desolated area made of crushed stones, sand and timber. As soon as you reach the flat ground, start bushwacking, moving directly towards the slope of Marcy in front of you and you will soon hit Opalescent river (more like a brook). Make it across and continue bushwacking for another 20 feet or so until you hit the actual hiking trail that will take you to Marcy. Welcome back to the civilized world. You made it off-trail, descended about 1000 feet and traveled about another mile from the summit. It is all gravy from now except for the few hundred feet of trail to come...

The ascent of Marcy

This next section will take you about 4 miles further and 1650 feet up to the top of Marcy. Take the blue blazed trail south (to the right)and follow the signs for Marcy. Be careful since the remaining of Opalescent river trail is heavily damaged and there are a few mud traps and floating boardwalks there only waiting to suck you under!!

Then, at the junction with Feldspar brook trail, head up for Marcy to the left. Follow the yellow blazes. The trail will eventually take you to a wonderful mountain meadow lake (called Tear of the Clouds Lake) on the high plateau. You can take a break there and enjoy the breathtaking view of the bald summit of Marcy while fueling up on carbohydrates and replenishing water since the last mile or so to the summit is quite strenuous. Keep going to the junction of Skylight and head left still following the yellow blazes. The last portion on the rock slab just before the summit is quite impressive with many well built cairns lined up to show the way to the peak. Just below the north side of the summit, is a bronze plaque embedded in the rock you do not want to miss. It is a memorial for those who first climbed mount Marcy back in 1837. Imagine that!!

The descent of Marcy

The descent off Marcy to the Marcy Dam campground is done via the Van Hoevenberg trail following the blue blazes all the way, a distance of 5.1 miles, 2978 feet down. Shortly after going back down into the woods, you will arrive at a junction where you will follow directions to the Marcy Dam lean-tos. A couple miles down the Hoevenberg trail, you will come across Indian Falls which is a must for water lovers . There, if time and weather permit, you can bathe under the falls or simply wonder at the beauty of this natural marvel. Then another few miles will take you back to your campsite at Marcy Dam.

You have completed a 12 mile loop, went up and down 8020 feet of elevation change. If you choose to go for it, this is a hell of a hike you will never forget. And people will hear snoring coming from your tent after this one, I promise.

Enjoy it!!

Essential Gear

If you are to follow this route in summer or fall and swim across Avalanche Lake, waterproof bags are a must. You can put all your gears inside and drag them with a tow rope and enjoy a great peaceful swim. Such bags can be rented for a minimal cost.

For extra security, you might want to bring a climbing rope to secure the waterfall climb in the dike and/or the first section of the eastern slide of Colden.

There is plenty of water along the way but a purification system is needed everywhere. Filling up water with a pump at the high mountain meadow lake is not recommended since the water there is a bit darker and would rapidly plug the ceramic filter element. Pristine drops worked very well.

No matter what you do, try to reduce the weight you carry to a minimum. You will be happy you did when climbing up or down off-trail. Plenty of snacks, a good lunch and light windbreaker or polar fleece for the summits are required.

It took us 12 hours to complete this loop. Although we took lots of breaks, we ended up having to hurry the last 5 miles down Marcy in order to make it to camp before nightfall. We carried headlamps in our packs for that purpose and also due to the higher risk of incident on such a trek.

In that line of thinking, a good first-aid kit is necessary in case anything happens. Remember that while getting injured off-trail, chances are you will not be encountering other hikers until at least the next day when someone in the group reaches out. So, better be ready than sorry. This is strictly common sense.

At any rate, please feel free to send emails if you need more info or advice.

Bear situation

Just a little addition to emphasize the necessity for bear canisters...
Bears are indeed active in the High Peaks Wilderness area.
Since the creation of this page, I came back and camped in the area behind the Whales Tail trail lean-to at Marcy Dam only to be awakened in the middle of the night by my friend in the second tent banging his stuff around because apparently a bear was sniffing his shelter.
In the morning, our bear canister which was well away from the site and that I declared unmovable the night before, had been moved around and was scratched all over.
If you are skeptical about the necessity for canisters, think again.
It did save our asses...and food.!!
Leave if far away from camp and out of the nylon sleeve so it cannot be grabbed.

Route update 2011

Since I first made this page a few years ago, I came back with my nephew to do the same route again, this time guys only, trying to beat the time, if you know what I mean.

Except this time, it was in the early spring of 2010 and the swim across the lake was something else. Had to be quick because water is very cold in Avalanche lake until late april.

We found out that kayak waterproof bags were not essential nor necessary for the crossing. We each used 2 Glad orange garden bags put one into the other to put our stuff in, boots, clothes and packpacks alike. You just have to close the bags with a knot and they will float perfectly. No need for a towing rope, just push your bag in front of you on the water to the other side.

If people walk by, it is sure to draw a few pictures, two naked guys pushing garbage bags on a mountain lake at full speed, because they are freezing their lower appendices...Quite a sight.

Told you, this route is not for amateurs!!!

Images

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