A bigger day than expected. A long, fairly steep trek up to the mixed section. Was awkward with a 30m 5mm Alpine rope. Will take a full rope next time to pitch it out further. Took the left line on the mixed step. Placed no screws. Crux went on a picket at the base, a #1, a blue tricam and a #2 above the crux move.
We didn't bother with a summit. Chase and I were more interested in the climb. Chase brought sticks but due to slush that afternoon, elected to not ski Lambs Slide. We descended Loft instead. New snow (storm) made the Loft 'interesting'.
Crux was mixed. Perhaps M2+. Thin, manky with a few bulges. Free-climbed it then belayed Chase up since he had skis.
Good climb! Although, all the new snow made conditions not favourable.
Snow was in great condition. The crux was mixed climbing, but good ice considering it was mid-October
We did not get to early of a start and I moved a bit slow, but finished this route up to the loft then descended. Beautiful multi-dimentional route.
Good snow, short somewhat hollow crux. Descent via the Loft. Happy it didn't slide. Great day to be in the Park.
Ice was in great condition. I like ice. I think I need to do some more ice climbing. Great weather for November.
hell yeah big day out.. killa weather.....didnt find the need for gear on the VERY short ice pitch... headed to clarks arrow ..up skyscraper to longs summit....shared rap
with another team down the north face......off the chain laughing all day....moved
at a quick pace.. hasta..
Climbed The Flying Dutchman on 6/23/2007. Snow was good in the morning, softening as the sun rose. From the Loft we took Clark's Arrow route around to the Homestretch and the summit of Longs. Descended the Keyhole route. Long day!
Trip report and photos here.