Wish we would have read forestdude's advice before doing this one :) We figured it out though, and enjoyed the one piece of solid rock on the mountain that created a stairway to the summit. Did this one after summitting the Wife the day before. Long hike back to Devil's Lake.
Keep going further up the trail (assuming you are coming from the Foley Ridge trail head and heading east). The South Ridge directions have you leave the trail too early - you'll be too far west and on an unnecessary ridge that will need to be downclimbed. Instead, keep going until you see the large rock cairn on the north side of the trail (maybe half to one mile further that the approach says?) It should seem like you are going further east than the peak. This is the place to start your accent. Head north, northeast (if you head directly up, you'll still end up on part of that unnecessary ridge. You want to find the gap between a separate ridge to the southeast of the Husband and the "unnecessary ridge". Other than that, it is mainly class 3 with a slight amount of class 4 (more class 4 if you don't pick your route well). I was excited to find fulgurite at the top and Western Pasque Flower before the steep section!
I am so glad that only a few climb this. For those that have know how cool it actually is.
Had a wonderful adventure on this one - hiked in and camped on top of Substitute Point, where a squadron of dragonflies devoured hordes of mosquitoes for our evening entertainment and the view of South Sister and The Husband in the setting sun were sublime. In the morning I bushwhacked into the great cirque and finally figured out I had to climb the seam, which I did, solo, my friend Dave electing to stay behind. Beautiful summit view.
20 miles round trip was a great way to spend the day. Rolling mellow hike with a section of 3rd class to gain the summit ridge.
Nice hike in to about 6000 feet, then I went cross country to gain the south ridge. First view of the summit up top of the ridge and it was farther away than I expected. Some downclimbing to the right when needed to get to the base of the summit pinnacle. Was not sure I could do it as a scramble, checked a few dead ends before finding a way to get up the ridge to the summit. Hot day with no clouds. Five hours up and four hours down, about 14-15 miles round trip. Tons of scree and sand and loose rock. Ah, the Oregon Cascades!