The infamous Alcatraz Escape...

The infamous Alcatraz Escape Route.

The route looks relatively low-angled in the photo, but this is by far the most dangerous ascent I have ever done. The exposure isn’t really visible. The rock was extremely crumbly, so crumbly in fact that placing bolts or pitons was impossible. Notice the hammer/pick Mike has. The rock was so soft that the only way to place any “protection” was to chip a small hole in the rock and place a hook/or bolt in it. That isn’t to say to tighten a bolt in, but to simply set it in for “psychological protection”. In a normal situation, I would never suggest such climbing methods, both for environmental and safety reasons.

The crux overhang is just ahead. It wasn't too bad, but we were wasted by the time we reached it.