Approach takes about an hour each way. Required about 4 hours of climbing, 12 pitches with most difficult being 5.8. Mixed trad and sport climbing. Plenty of anchor building options and good pro placement. Went in July and it was hot. I would recommend climbing in late Spring or Fall rather than July. Very hot.
Took ~2.5 hrs but did the direct route to the Tail (5.8 R?) instead of rapping down and doing the 2 5.7 bolted pitches. Great view and position, best of any route I've seen at Smith. Rock quality is not so good for the most part though. Would like to link to Thin Air and Birds in a Rut for a "19" pitch day.
With Karl on a 70 degree day at Smith. Did the first 6 pitches but then hit our turnaround time and rapped down from Brogan Spire to the cave, through the cave and down the Cave Route. Hope to go back and finish up the last 2 pitches.
The most adventure you can have at Smith! I can confirm Corvallis's suggestion that you unrope at the top of Pitch 2 and walk over to the anchors at the North end of The Mudpile. From those anchors, you can protect the downclimb, traverse, and moves all the way to the top of Mini Half Dome with a 60M rope.
We goofed up the descent and rapped down the east face instead of the west face. Fortunately, our double 60M ropes landed us safely (just barely) near the start of the Cave Route. After re-reading the route description, it sounds like we were supposed to rap down the other side (facing Koala rock). Oh well.
The second time I lead the first six pitches before being chased off Brogan Spire by lightning. Last Saturday three of up completed all 8-pitches in about 6-hours. The crux of the whole climb are probably the first few bolts on pitch #1, and the couple of moves to get up around the right side of The Tail on pitch #7.
Great climb. Took about 3.5 hours for the four of us. Lots of variety.