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Hotoven - Jan 27, 2012 12:48 pm - Voted 10/10

‘We’re half way there.’

I'm sick of hearing this when on a summit, then again, that probably means I still need to hear it many more times and haven't fallen in love with it yet! :)

great paper, keep up the quality work and writing!


Marcsoltan - Jan 29, 2012 4:10 pm - Voted 10/10

A lot of good ideas here!

You have a great article here. One suggestion if I may, make the photos larger.
Great job.


ExcitableBoy - Jan 29, 2012 4:31 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: A lot of good ideas here!

Thanks. I enlarged the photos.


wotan - Jan 29, 2012 9:53 pm - Hasn't voted

euro death knot

they don't call it that for nothing! it can walk, and eventually untie if a rap is repeatedly unweighted and reweighted. The EDK is a good knot if TWO are tied tightly next to each other. The 2nd knot prevents the first from walking. Still clears edges as well as single EDK


ExcitableBoy - Jan 29, 2012 10:10 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: euro death knot

The EDK is generally known not to walk unless unusually high loads are imparted. The long tails prevent it from untying. Many climbers and guides do tie a second knot, which is considered safer. I edited the text to reflect this. Thanks for commenting.

Wastral - Jan 30, 2012 10:27 am - Hasn't voted

walking knots

I have had both figure 8 and EDK walk as much as 6-8 inches. Especially if you double rappel.


ExcitableBoy - Jan 30, 2012 10:43 am - Hasn't voted

Re: walking knots

Figure 8s are known to walk and should never be used to join rappel ropes. I can't speak to your personal experience with an EDK walking, I have never seen one walk. I would personally never simu-rappel on an EDK - I would, and have used, triple fisherman's knots while engaging in this practice. I think simu-rappellinng falls under the category 'unusually high forces'. AAI guides use EDKs, even for tying their cordalettes:


peakmind - Feb 2, 2012 8:57 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: walking knots

I have used the overhand (EDK) knot for my rappelling for 10 years without incident. But thanks for sharing the backup idea...I'll give that a try when the situation will allow it.


rpc - Jan 31, 2012 5:46 pm - Voted 10/10


+ have knife


ExcitableBoy - Jan 31, 2012 6:04 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: nice

I remembered to point out the necessity of a knife only after I took the photo of the tools. I may take another photo. Some of the commerically available thread retrievers (the Catholic school boy in me refuses to call them 'hookers') have small serrated blades built in.


rpc - Jan 31, 2012 6:24 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: nice

"the Catholic school boy in me refuses to call them 'hookers'"
...such childhood scars we carry for life! cheers.


ExcitableBoy - Feb 2, 2012 10:50 am - Hasn't voted

Re: To....

Thanks. I added a new photo of the V-thread tools to reflect the necessity of a knife.

DanTheMan - Mar 13, 2012 1:58 am - Hasn't voted

carrying knives

I keep a little hardware store razor blade taped into the back of my helmet. It cuts nylon like butter. I sometimes have a pocket knife on me too, but a lot of times I take it out for making lunch or something and it ends up at the bottom of the pack.


JoelSkok - Sep 19, 2015 7:24 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: carrying knives

There is a knot gaining popularity among climbers that the stevedores (cowhands)use in their trade. Don't know its name but i saw it demonstrated on a Petzl rock climbing feature filmed in Patagonia. It was on Youtube, I will try to find it and get you a link. Excellent and timely article you wrote by the way.

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