I'm sick of hearing this when on a summit, then again, that probably means I still need to hear it many more times and haven't fallen in love with it yet! :)
great paper, keep up the quality work and writing!
You have a great article here. One suggestion if I may, make the photos larger.
Thanks. I enlarged the photos.
they don't call it that for nothing! it can walk, and eventually untie if a rap is repeatedly unweighted and reweighted. The EDK is a good knot if TWO are tied tightly next to each other. The 2nd knot prevents the first from walking. Still clears edges as well as single EDK
The EDK is generally known not to walk unless unusually high loads are imparted. The long tails prevent it from untying. Many climbers and guides do tie a second knot, which is considered safer. I edited the text to reflect this. Thanks for commenting.
I have had both figure 8 and EDK walk as much as 6-8 inches. Especially if you double rappel.
Figure 8s are known to walk and should never be used to join rappel ropes. I can't speak to your personal experience with an EDK walking, I have never seen one walk. I would personally never simu-rappel on an EDK - I would, and have used, triple fisherman's knots while engaging in this practice. I think simu-rappellinng falls under the category 'unusually high forces'. AAI guides use EDKs, even for tying their cordalettes: http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/2011/08/euro-death-knot-overhand-bend.html
I have used the overhand (EDK) knot for my rappelling for 10 years without incident. But thanks for sharing the backup idea...I'll give that a try when the situation will allow it.
+ have knife
I remembered to point out the necessity of a knife only after I took the photo of the tools. I may take another photo. Some of the commerically available thread retrievers (the Catholic school boy in me refuses to call them 'hookers') have small serrated blades built in.
"the Catholic school boy in me refuses to call them 'hookers'"
...such childhood scars we carry for life! cheers.
Thanks. I added a new photo of the V-thread tools to reflect the necessity of a knife.
I keep a little hardware store razor blade taped into the back of my helmet. It cuts nylon like butter. I sometimes have a pocket knife on me too, but a lot of times I take it out for making lunch or something and it ends up at the bottom of the pack.
There is a knot gaining popularity among climbers that the stevedores (cowhands)use in their trade. Don't know its name but i saw it demonstrated on a Petzl rock climbing feature filmed in Patagonia. It was on Youtube, I will try to find it and get you a link. Excellent and timely article you wrote by the way.