Climbed this in two days, only hauling to dinner ledge as my first big climb. Fractured my foot on a lead fall during the transition between 5.8 free section (off dinner ledge) and the first bolt of Kor Roof.
I'm new to aid climbing so the aid took much longer than expected. The story and time-details in my Trip Report:
Oct 8 climbed pitches 1-3 and slept on the dinner ledge at the upper camp. Oct 9, 2014 Aided up the bolt ladder above the upper camp as another group was on the more common variation from the lower ledge of the dinner ledge camp. After the bolts ran out a very fine crack was present but we didn't have right aid pieces for it so we bailed off.
Got hit by a storm just as we reached the dinner ledge, and ended up rappelling down while getting snowed on. Naturally as soon as we reached the bottom the weather cleared. Oh well, next time I suppose!
Topped out at midnight. Fortunately the rappels all went smoothly in the dark! It was very windy climbing during the day, but the wind had stopped by nightfall. We had a great full moon for the bivy at Dinner Ledge and the nighttime climbing! We also climbed & hauled P1 the night of the approach on account of the full moon and nice ledge up there. Ants left us alone.
Got the proper "first time on a wall" ass kicking, bailed in the dark, tail between legs and now that my short memory has kicked in, stoked to get back up on the walls!
Did it in the August heat!
My first big wall route in 1998. I hooked up with a guy in Camp 4, who freaked out on the Kor Roof. Down we went.
I found another guy, Ron in Camp 4. We went up and he freaked out on the Kor Roof too. Down we went, to Dinner Ledge.
On Dinner Ledge I managed to team up with two guys from Oklahoma. The next day we left Ron on Dinner Ledge and climbed to the top, and rappelled down. Apparently Ron had gone somewhat stir crazy in our absence, sunbathing nude and such.
Another memorable incident was we were having a group discussion about scary climbing moments. Suddenly Ron chimes in, "You know what's scary? Looking for crack cocaine in downtown Fresno at midnight -- THAT'S scary!".
Pretty hard to top that.
Another ascent, with Jonathan Shapas in 2000(?). It was hot.
storm set in so we fixed line over the ceiling and past it. bailed and sat it out in the valley drinking beer. jugged up the next day and went for the top ,non-stop, before the next storm hit. left the gear on the ledge, why haul it all to the top if ya don't have to.
With Rene Stettler.