I'll be in Moab on the 15th, and this one is a possiblity. I look forward to your write up of this route. I've never spoken to someone who climbed this thing.
it's an awsome route! In fact, pitch 1 is the best handcrack I've climbed (or thrashed on). Rock is perfect; as is the pro. I've never led (or followed) a 10c before so I did hang/rest thru. the P1 crux a "fair" share. What is the real crux is P2 10a OW! Whereas I can see myself getting the p1 more cleanly if I tried it the 2nd time, I don't think I could do the second pitch clean anytime soon. I found it very hard (only ~15 feet of it is hard). But pro was excellent here as well.
I'll post route beta in the next day or so incl. what pro to take. Let me know if you have more specific questions.
Only real question is gear. How big? I've got two #3's, a #4 and a big bro as big as a #4, but I could get a hold of more big stuff if necessary. It sounds like 10-15 feet worth of OW gear writing it down! Great page.
I'm sure Radek will, as usual, provide excellent beta, but here is a friend's trip report from the same route (scroll down to the bottom of the page for the Penguins climb) with a few comments about the protection used.
the gear - while it's still fresh in my mind. Take this with a grain of salt as I suck and find 10's hard. What I used:
Camalots: doubles from 0.75 to #4 roughly with possible triples (depending on how comfy you feel on 10's) in #2 and #3. I had triples in those 2 sizes but don't remember if I used them or not. I placed one large nut (but could've gotten by fine w/o one). One slightly larger cam could be used to aid the crux exit move out of the OW (I dogged off of #5 Camalot but that was kind of too big; one 4.5 would've worked for this as well) - this is optional.
Bring slightly smaller cam or two (used red Alien + 1 0.75 Camalot) for belay at the base of the route (exposed - I wanted a good anchor here).
OW section I plugged in my #5 Friend, #4 Camalot, #4 C4 (bit larger than #3.5 Camalot). It's easy though to slide the large cam up with you as you go here.
Belays are bolted in the standard Moab fashion (drilled angles) - except base of route of course.
I emphasize the fact that good climbers will probably find this to be a tremendous overkill - the first pitch is under 100 feet long; second is about 50 feet. Anway, take it for what's it's worth.
Thank you for your kind remark. I've just read the report and enjoyed it very much! I think I've read other (quality) stuff by the same author in the past (I'm thinking about a Resolution Arete TR I read some time ago....I seem to remember some of the names of people being similar? I might be wrong.). Anyway, I will add a link to this TR on the main page. I also smiled at the fact that one of the women in the TR had similar issues to my wife - specifically, what was a nice hand crack for me was essentially an OW for her (my ideal handcrack is somewhere between a yellow and a blue Camalot; hers is closer to the 0.75 Cam :)
Anyway, good climbing to you!