culmination of lots of hard work with AJ. topped out just before dark, and enjoyed a night rappel! don't bother trying to climb the "5.9" center chimney. stick with the classic route.
About 5th time up. Now I lead it in one pitch to the top with a 70m. I place a C4#5 at the start of the wide, lock off a knee, reach down below my foot and move it one time. Two 5's would sow that wide section up. This is a soft 5.10c compared to other Moab Towers, partially no doubt because it is cleaned up from traffic.
Did this a second time years ago and we walked a C4#6 for a bit as I recall in the last pitch. Fun climb, worth doing, great spot, no approach.
Quick afternoon climb of Right Chimney. First pitch is great and I thoroughly enjoyed the most secure chicken winging I've ever experienced near the top of it. Second pitch, not so much. Shamelessy pulled on gear to get through the offwidth crux. Did some shenanigans up top to get from the middle summit to the highpoint.
the first pitch is so good it will make you forget about the off-width to follow
Did the hard pitch, 5.10c 1st pitch, before realizing that the kids (Megan and Jonathan) would not be able to 2nd it. Pretty stiff for 5.10c I thought. Chewed up my left arm in that small off width section as well. I did not have the gear to feel all warm and fuzzy about this pitch. You need several 4's and 3's to protect this well. Decent climb though. The middle chimney is a disaster for noobs though which was the route I thought I could take them up.
Many times on this one. My favorite Arches route, overhanging hands and fists, and fun OW handstack swimming.
Rained the entire last pitch. Didnt make the OW any easier.