This was the crux for us in...

This was the crux for us in...

This was the crux for us in Oct. '81. This and the lo-o-ong rightward diagonal upper 500+ feet, with the right crampon constantly stabbing sideways. Rough on the ankle. Derek Franzen belaying me here.

Photo by Larry Rasmussen

Eric Sandbo
on Nov 21, 2004 2:44 am
Image ID: 78841


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camerona91 - Nov 2, 2007 10:15 pm - Voted 10/10


Looks fun and exposed! This is at the serac band I presume? A route I would like to try next summer.

Eric Sandbo

Eric Sandbo - Nov 5, 2007 12:35 am - Hasn't voted


It was loads of fun, actually. I almost ruined the day early when I dropped a shell mitt low on the route and watched it skitter down and drop into a crevasse. Larry saved me with a spare mitten. I've climbed Baker several times and almost always get a queasy stomach on it. Could be altitude, but I think I'm just allergic to hard work. I felt fine on the Coleman Headwall all day, and I'm sure it's because I was having so much fun. Hope you get to try it.

I haven't been on this route in 26 years, so I can't say for sure it's the serac band you're thinking of, but the step just above was obvious enough that it had caught our attention much earlier. Just when we were approaching the moment of truth, this crevasse showed up. Just one of the things we all love about climbing.

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