With Lanier Benkard. A short and easy ascent of the talus and scree leading to the notch separating the North and South summit, and an interesting time free climbing the summit block. A lot of loose rock in the chute, it is probably safer to climb this in the early spring. We had planned to traverse to Starlight but the weather turned sour around 10 am. It rained and snowed all afternoon, and there was a massive rock fall in the nearby Starlight Chute around 5 pm. No regrets on turning back on that traverse - this would have been our way down.
Climbed this with mconnell. We intended to climb the East Couloir, but got off-track to the left side of the couloir. No matter. We forged what we thought was a new route, only to find a rappel sling no more than a few years old, and later a section of hemp rope from days gone by.
We climbed the north summit first (not by the easiest route, we found later), followed by the south summit. In tossing our rope over the summit block and pulling it taut, blind luck caught it in the carabiner on the summit bolts. Ha! What a fun day! Here's the trip report, if you care. :)
This was the first summit of my CA 14er speed climbing tour! Check out the trip report here.
We started out heading up the couloir but took the wrong branch. Ended up near the east face. Climbed both summits.