Yes, from S Lake to Glacier Lodge with a car shuttle (19 hours). Times are detailed here. Honestly, I think we could have easily shaved off at least 1.5 hours with less socializing with the SPers we met along the way, not that it isn't good to be social sometimes.
Good Page here. Thanks for submitting it. Just a comment: This was tried several times in the winter but, (to my knowledge) the traverse does not have a winter ascent. It was tried by starting via Sill's Swiss Arete and going in the opposite direction (toward Thunderbolt). The ridge is an amazing place in the winter!
You mention the large gap between Starlight and North Pal, and a possible rap. I also tried to downclimb near the rap and found it difficult and committing, so gave up. But after some more experimenting, I found an easy chimney to the East of the rap station, and this afforded a class 4 or easy class 5 downclimb. From this lower base, I could just step across the gap, thus avoiding the rap.
I went back up there yesterday, and realize that my memory has a few gaps: the downclimb through the chimney itself was no problem (class 4), but getting across the notch is a bit sketchy, and my partner asked for the rope (involves a "stem-of-faith" and then a mid-5th mantle onto the giant block). But definitely better than downclimbing the rap. There might be a better way; after downclimbing the chimney, I took the first possible traverse, but there's a chance you can go down farther and find a less technical route.
Also, in the spirit of going ropeless (if both partners are willing to solo the summit blocks, then 25m of 6mm for downclimbing ought to be sufficient), I took a picture of what I believe is the correct Clyde Variation downclimb. On a previous trip, I found my own 4th class variation which was definitely not what Secor had in mind; and yesterday, we got even more lost and had to make 2 raps. But from Polemonium, I think I spotted the route that Secor talks about (I'll attach a photo called "Cylde Variation" to this page).
The key info about the Clyde Variation:
(first, what Secor says, going from U-Notch up to North Pal):
"Descend the SW side of The U Notch 120 feet to the base of a large crack that leads up to a ledge. Climb the wall to the right of the crack (40' of easy class 4) to the ledge and follow the ledge left, around an arete, and into the next chute north. Climb the chute (class 3) to the southeast arete of North Pal, meeting it right next to the top of the Chimney Variation. Follow the SE arete to the summit"
I think descending 120' is an exaggeration, and it should be more like 40' or 50'. See the photo for a picture of the crack. I haven't climbed the route I outlined, but the description matches well.
And for climbers descending the route, the key beta is to go to the rap station area for the main chimney route, and then go down the faint gully here. Do NOT make the mistake I made twice and take the prominent scree gully down (the one that is obvious from the summit of North Pal). The correct gully is small and hidden from the summit.
And since this comment is already so long, might as well add my last bit of advice: I don't think the South Lake approach saves that much time. I've done both approaches, and actually made it to the top of Thunderbolt in the exact same time (albeit, with different circumstances and conditions and partners). The South Lake approach is faster and has less elevation gain (and is pretty), but, due to the car shuttle, I don't think it's worth it.
Thanks for the additional details. It would be interesting to do it RT from Glacier Lodge, though it always feel like such a breeze getting to T-bolt with the S Lake approach.
We soloed the route yesterday. Didn't try and find the Clyde variation. The chimney wasn't as bad as it looks from the top. Will post beta on the gap in the route description. A few options. Thanks for the tip.
Since Swiss-Arete + Palisades Traverse seems so natural, I'm wondering what the route is like in the Sill to Thunderbolt direction? Anyone here done this? For example, is getting across the notch between North Pal and Starlight very hard? And the downclimb of Polemonium to the U-Notch?
I haven't done it in opposite direction all the way from Sill but did solo climb from U-Notch to NPal and on to Starlight and found the gap/notch traverse "spicy". I found it easier on the return but probably only because I knew the way? If I remember correctly, it took me about 35 minutes to get from NP to Starlight and about 20 mins to get back. I also climbed Polemonium from U-Notch and back and it wasn't too bad with careful routefinding.
Thanks, Kiefer! Your comment reminded me to add some updates on the approach section. You should definitely head to CA if you want some high quality ridge routes. It's hard to find things of the same magnitude/difficulty here in CO.
fossana - Feb 5, 2008 3:51 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Nice page...Thanks, definitely on my repeat list.
fossana - Feb 5, 2008 3:41 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: I take itYes, from S Lake to Glacier Lodge with a car shuttle (19 hours). Times are detailed here. Honestly, I think we could have easily shaved off at least 1.5 hours with less socializing with the SPers we met along the way, not that it isn't good to be social sometimes.
asmrz - Feb 9, 2008 7:36 pm - Voted 10/10
Anyone for a winter ascent?Good Page here. Thanks for submitting it. Just a comment: This was tried several times in the winter but, (to my knowledge) the traverse does not have a winter ascent. It was tried by starting via Sill's Swiss Arete and going in the opposite direction (toward Thunderbolt). The ridge is an amazing place in the winter!
fossana - Feb 11, 2008 12:38 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Anyone for a winter ascent?Thanks and good luck. Didn't see anything in the lit about a winter ascent.
lavaka - Aug 1, 2008 10:46 am - Voted 10/10
gap between Starlight and North PalYou mention the large gap between Starlight and North Pal, and a possible rap. I also tried to downclimb near the rap and found it difficult and committing, so gave up. But after some more experimenting, I found an easy chimney to the East of the rap station, and this afforded a class 4 or easy class 5 downclimb. From this lower base, I could just step across the gap, thus avoiding the rap.
fossana - Aug 1, 2008 6:03 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: gap between Starlight and North PalGreat beta. Thanks! It would be nice to be able to do the traverse either solo or only a 30m for the summit blocks.
lavaka - Aug 3, 2008 10:25 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: gap between Starlight and North PalI went back up there yesterday, and realize that my memory has a few gaps: the downclimb through the chimney itself was no problem (class 4), but getting across the notch is a bit sketchy, and my partner asked for the rope (involves a "stem-of-faith" and then a mid-5th mantle onto the giant block). But definitely better than downclimbing the rap. There might be a better way; after downclimbing the chimney, I took the first possible traverse, but there's a chance you can go down farther and find a less technical route.
Also, in the spirit of going ropeless (if both partners are willing to solo the summit blocks, then 25m of 6mm for downclimbing ought to be sufficient), I took a picture of what I believe is the correct Clyde Variation downclimb. On a previous trip, I found my own 4th class variation which was definitely not what Secor had in mind; and yesterday, we got even more lost and had to make 2 raps. But from Polemonium, I think I spotted the route that Secor talks about (I'll attach a photo called "Cylde Variation" to this page).
The key info about the Clyde Variation:
(first, what Secor says, going from U-Notch up to North Pal):
"Descend the SW side of The U Notch 120 feet to the base of a large crack that leads up to a ledge. Climb the wall to the right of the crack (40' of easy class 4) to the ledge and follow the ledge left, around an arete, and into the next chute north. Climb the chute (class 3) to the southeast arete of North Pal, meeting it right next to the top of the Chimney Variation. Follow the SE arete to the summit"
I think descending 120' is an exaggeration, and it should be more like 40' or 50'. See the photo for a picture of the crack. I haven't climbed the route I outlined, but the description matches well.
And for climbers descending the route, the key beta is to go to the rap station area for the main chimney route, and then go down the faint gully here. Do NOT make the mistake I made twice and take the prominent scree gully down (the one that is obvious from the summit of North Pal). The correct gully is small and hidden from the summit.
And since this comment is already so long, might as well add my last bit of advice: I don't think the South Lake approach saves that much time. I've done both approaches, and actually made it to the top of Thunderbolt in the exact same time (albeit, with different circumstances and conditions and partners). The South Lake approach is faster and has less elevation gain (and is pretty), but, due to the car shuttle, I don't think it's worth it.
fossana - Aug 6, 2008 11:56 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: gap between Starlight and North PalThanks for the additional details. It would be interesting to do it RT from Glacier Lodge, though it always feel like such a breeze getting to T-bolt with the S Lake approach.
fossana - Sep 2, 2008 3:24 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: gap between Starlight and North PalWe soloed the route yesterday. Didn't try and find the Clyde variation. The chimney wasn't as bad as it looks from the top. Will post beta on the gap in the route description. A few options. Thanks for the tip.
lavaka - Sep 10, 2008 11:03 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: gap between Starlight and North PalAwesome. I've always avoided the chimney, but my friends tell me that it's not trivial to climb up, so soloing down it is pretty rad.
lavaka - Aug 4, 2008 12:02 pm - Voted 10/10
Other directionSince Swiss-Arete + Palisades Traverse seems so natural, I'm wondering what the route is like in the Sill to Thunderbolt direction? Anyone here done this? For example, is getting across the notch between North Pal and Starlight very hard? And the downclimb of Polemonium to the U-Notch?
kovarpa - Aug 4, 2008 5:53 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Other directionI haven't done it in opposite direction all the way from Sill but did solo climb from U-Notch to NPal and on to Starlight and found the gap/notch traverse "spicy". I found it easier on the return but probably only because I knew the way? If I remember correctly, it took me about 35 minutes to get from NP to Starlight and about 20 mins to get back. I also climbed Polemonium from U-Notch and back and it wasn't too bad with careful routefinding.
lavaka - Sep 10, 2008 11:05 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Other directioncool, that's what I was looking for. All the way from Sill isn't important, because Sill to Polemonium is only 3rd class in either direction.
fossana - Sep 29, 2010 1:13 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Other directionPosted beta here:
http://www.summitpost.org/object_discussion.php?type=vote_comments&object_id=378567&is_addition=1
Kiefer - Jun 3, 2012 12:40 am - Voted 10/10
Wonderful...page, Fossana! Definitely some work you've put into this. I love ridges and this reminds me why I NEED to go to Cali!
Good stuff here!
fossana - Jun 3, 2012 4:41 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Wonderful...Thanks, Kiefer! Your comment reminded me to add some updates on the approach section. You should definitely head to CA if you want some high quality ridge routes. It's hard to find things of the same magnitude/difficulty here in CO.