Climbed with Philippe Gerschel, starting from the Torino Hut at 5AM. We reached the approach couloir at around 6:30AM and were into shoes and climbing at 7AM. Routefinding in the lower section was a bit tricky due to lots of slings and fixed gear all over the place. We climbed a bit too high initially, but rappelled back down to the large balcony below the crux chimney/dihedral. The crux was strenuous and the climbing on the final 80m wall to the summit spectacular. Maybe I liked the last 80m best because I was climbing without a pack. After reaching the central summit, we traversed to the main south summit and rappelled back to the glacier via the Couloir des Aiguillettes. I later learned that better rappel descents are now possible via the more modern routes on the south and east faces. An excellent climb with many interesting pitches and fairly sustained/strenuous.