Twisted Sister, 5.7-5.12c

Overview/Approach

The Fixed Pin South Platte guide covers a section named Buffalo Creek which is centered on Forest Service Road 550.  FS 550 is a popular free place to camp for fisherman and city dwellers in general.  It is also a great place to reach a lot of climbing.  From several of the sites, you can either hike or bike to several features directly from camp.  One of those areas south of FS 550 contains four significant formations, one of which is Twisted Sister.  Little Scraggy, Asshole Rock and Da Butts make up the other three. 

The guide discusses approaching Asshole Rock and Twisted Sister from a gated forest road along FS 550 just west of Highway 126.  However, a better approach in my opinion is to gain the Colorado Trail on bike or foot and hike south as you would for Little Scraggy.  Asshole Rock comes into view to the east.  From the Colorado Trail, start hiking up the open forest to the base of the northeast face.  There will be bushwhacking involved regardless of which approach you use, but it is tame.   Once you get to the NE face, circumvent the base of a slab to the east and you will reach the better routes of Asshole Rock (and some of the better routes in all of South Platte) on the SW face.  Notably Cardiac Crack, 5.9+****, Southern Exposure, 5.12d***, and Laughing Stock, 5.11b***.  They are all next to one another in an intimate wilderness setting.

It makes sense to combine Twisted Sister and Asshole Rock together for a full day adventure.  Twisted Sister is easily reached from Asshole Rock by descending to a drainage to the east and ascending under the southwest face to reach its better moderates:  I’m Not Okay, You’re Not Okay, But That’s Okay, 5.10c****, Space Master 2, 5.9*** and Nice and Sleezy, 5.9***.  On return, it is better to descend the opposite side of Twisted Sister as you angle back north to the Colorado Trail via easy traveling through open forest.

If not climbing on Asshole Rock first, it is best to ascend up below the short north face of Twisted Sister and drop down the gully between “Rock(s) #2 and #3. 

Rock #1, Furthest West, Southwest face, Left to Right

Bidet- 5.7/

I said Bidet- 5.10a*/

Bidet to You Good Sir- 5.8/

Rock #2, Separated by a Gully

Like You, Like Me- 5.7/

Western Relief- 5.7*/

I’m Not Okay, You’re Not Okay, But That’s Ok- 5.10c****/

Frontal Lobe Excision- 5.12b**/

Rock #3, Separated by a Gully

Space Master 2- 100’-5.9***/ Climbs the arete on the right side of the gully separating Rocks #2 and #3.  Look for the splitter crack going through a 5.9 roof.  Climb some chossy cracks to reach the roof and make a fun hand jam roof pull with a high left foot.  Then the angle lays off to the top.  Gear Belay.  Descend down a mossy 5.4 ramp on the back side.  Single to #3 with a few extra medium pieces for the belay. Dow

Nice and Sleezy- 60’-5.9***/ When you descend Space Master, Nice and Easy is right there at the bottom of the ramp.  Afternoon shade.  Climb the easy stem/chimney box and find good hands through the bulge.  Belay on small to medium gear in a horizontal atop the crack.  Descend climbers left.  Circumvent the ledge to a chossy chimney and carefully downclimb.  Single to #4.  Dow

Secret Climb One- 5.11b***/

Secret Climb Two- 5.12c**/

Rock #4, Located on the East End, South Face

Twisted Sister- 5.10c**/

Bent Brother- 5.9/