Unicorn Peak Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 55

deniseftw - Jun 29, 2020 11:47 am Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2019

Unicorn Peak  Sucess!

I climbed Unicorn Peak with The Mountaineers. We started from the Bench Lake Trailhead and made our way past Snow Lake up to the steep gully covered in snow. The snow was a little sketchy but our group had little postholing issues. We made it to the Unicorn's tower after three and a half hours and proceeded to reach the summit via the South face. We had three rope leads and I led one of the routes rated at 5.6. The rock was solid and the summit views were amazing! The trip ended up being seven hours total.


AndrewDLB - Aug 16, 2019 12:56 am Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2019

Awesome climb!

We had the mountain all to ourselves! Note we accidentally went a slightly wrong route on the accent and got into some pretty rotten class 4 stuff. for the summit we took the far right route, the "class 4 walk up" It felt like low class 5 at times, with intense exposure, but overall not too difficult.

Here is a video I made from the climb:


Jowzynkyn - Jul 26, 2019 11:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2019

80 degrees in july free solo  Sucess!

3 hours up and 2 and a half hours back, rock scarambled Class 3 on small sream to the left after the trail end at Snow Lake, Class 4 scrambled up a sketchy gully and finished on the 5.6 classic route on the 50 ft summit. Proceeded to play accordion for Rainier!


ethanlayne1 - Jul 10, 2019 9:32 am Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2019

Unicorn done and dusted  Sucess!

First alpine rock experience, a sick climb! The tatoosh are underrated


SloJay - Jun 26, 2018 9:07 pm Date Climbed: May 27, 2018

Rideing the unicorn  Sucess!

The glissades on the way down were epic

johnlpdx - Jun 7, 2018 12:32 pm Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2018

Awesome first alpine climb with rock!  Sucess!

Beautiful day to summit while the weather held off with Rainier visible in the background the whole time.

Jake Robinson

Jake Robinson - Sep 2, 2017 6:18 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2017

Quick and easy  Sucess!

Climbed some talus, snow, then class 3 rock to the summit pyramid. One short easy 5th class pitch to the top - clipped an old piton and placed a cam. Great views of Rainier! Traversed to Foss and Pinnacle next.

Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Jul 22, 2017 6:10 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2005

Another disappearing one  Sucess!

Not sure why my entry from 2005 was deleted. Climbed this with David Kantola back then. Did this and The Castle this day.


ZakG - Jun 18, 2017 1:29 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2017

Exposure!  Sucess!

Klenke is right about the exposure on the "Class 4" route. I soloed it, but not without the same initial hesitation that he had. What a drop!

There were probably 50 people in the summit area. The Mountaineers and the Mazamas were in full effect. I have never seen anything like it.


Redwic - Jun 26, 2016 12:23 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2016

Ridin' the Unicorn!  Sucess!

After several other plans fell through, this was a last-minute choice and it proved to be a good one. We took the Class 4 route up (roped), and then rappelled from the tree snag mentioned in other reports. It was hot up there, and two big groups from Oregon were also summiting. Highly recommended.


BKW - Jun 3, 2016 12:43 am Date Climbed: May 30, 2016

Ridin' the Unicorn  Sucess!

It was non-stop thrills.
We made short work of the "normal" route and the "crack" route. The party following us up had a somewhat scary lead climber fall.
Glissade down was pretty top-notch.

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Jan 12, 2016 7:23 pm Date Climbed: May 4, 2013

Awesome Sunny Day  Sucess!

Great snow for kicking up and the final summit pitch was dry. Led the 5.6 crack route. Fun little climb and awesome views of rainier


Boonie1 - Jul 8, 2015 12:07 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2015

Unicorn Peak  Sucess!

Hot day and only party on top!

PDuckX - Jun 17, 2015 3:18 pm Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2015

Broken Mazama Climb  Sucess!

This was to be the second day of a Mazama's climb that was cancelled due to unforeseen reasons. Five of us decided to do it anyways and had a great time. Beautiful day, only the upper snow field was covered and required crampons. We were the first to the summit block and utilized the second route to the right.

Everyone agreed it was a nice varied climb for relative newbies, as we got to use all the new skills we learned over the past year in BCEP.

mbt - Jun 26, 2014 7:43 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2013

A bit of everything  Sucess!

I climbed this with the Mazamas last June. We had beautiful weather and a generally uneventful climb. We started around 8 and hit snow almost immediately out of the parking lot. It's a gradual hike to the lake that involved some route-finding. Then we hit the snow chutes, which seemed quite steep to me (admittedly my experience is limited). We did use crampons and ice axes for the two snow chutes. After that, we hit the rock pinnacle and climbed I think the 5.0 route -- it was around the side from the 5.6 routes and didn't have any crazy exposure, which I've heard the 4th class route has. Anyway, it was a super easy climb. I had been stressed most about the rock part and found it to be the easiest part of the climb. We then repelled off the front part of the pinnacle (by the 5.6 routes), where I took a lovely pendulum swing and banged an already injured leg into a rock wall, so go me! For complete newbies like me, the repel was more challenging because it went against the fall line. Finally, we glissaded down the upper snow chute but opted to avoid glissading the lower snow chute due to some exposed rocks.

So a little of everything -- I took this right after taking the Mazamas basic climbing class, and it's well suited for that. Other thoughts -- avoid later summer climbs because getting up those chutes is way easier when there's snow.


gimpilator - Jun 22, 2014 3:04 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2014

4 peaks in a day  Sucess!

Unicorn, Foss, The Castle, and Pinnacle. See my report:

We raced a bus load of The Mountaineers and beat them to the summit block. We climbed the 5.6 route.

ndriley97 - Jun 11, 2014 1:47 pm Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2014

Sunny Day  Sucess!

Beautiful, rare sunny day! Great views of Rainier throughout much of the route.


olymountainman - Jan 12, 2014 11:17 pm Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2013

Unicorn  Sucess!

Fun climb!


pingzingr - Aug 25, 2013 12:29 am Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2013

Success  Sucess!

Good day in the Tatoosh as usual. Clouds were in and out all day and I can definitely see why this is a good early summer climb. Would have been a hell of a lot easier with snow in the upper bowls. Right side 5.0 lines had a bit of exposure and was nerve-wracking being the only guy on the mountain!


cyffredinol - Jun 5, 2013 12:33 am Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2013

A fun day  Sucess!

My first (successful) climb with the Mazamas after BCEP. Very enjoyable climb despite the clouds hiding the view.

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