Unicorn Peak Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 46

Diesel - Jun 29, 2021 5:52 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2021

Not what I expected  Sucess!

I went up there with the belief the the only difficult part would be the "hand traverse." Not really; that entire traverse from the notch to the summit is serious class 4. The exposure is tremendous on either side. As far as the hand traverse, I have no idea how a heavier or taller person can do it. And yes, on the way back, jumping is a better option. It might not look like it at that height, but crawling backward on that traverse is worse. Oh, and there is no register up there! Go figure, for such an iconic summit. As a bonus I had to bag Mount Althuski; I just couldn't resist such a beautiful slope made of solid rocks.


CWessels - Jul 17, 2019 1:55 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2019

via South Ridge  Sucess!

I did some face climbing on from the west to reach the notch between the north and middle summits. (There was a 100' chimney section on this face with a large chockstone that had to be mantled due to lack of holds on the sides and top of it; this was definitely class 4 and harder and scarier than anything on the south ridge.) The ridge is not as intimidating as I remembered it from many years past. The exposure is less than Cathedral and the climbing is easier. I felt it was basically class 3. The hand traverse is technically class 4, from what I read, but it feels no more difficult than anything else on the route. It can be a little tricky on the down-climb, however, because it's hard to see from above. (The pillar above it is overhanging.) Completed in about 6 hours RT from somewhere along the 120. (I wasn't moving too fast and I had to navigate around many large snowfields, which extended the length of the approach/return quite a bit.)


Deb - Sep 15, 2018 10:32 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2018

Good fun!  Sucess!

South ridge to summit was quite exposed in places but super fun climbing even with 30mph winds.


MikeLJ - Aug 11, 2017 12:09 pm Date Climbed: Sep 16, 1994

Fabulous  Sucess!

Climbed to summit, afterwards descended into the corrie beneath the Cockscomb and down to Budd lake. Followed the river down to the road.


Andinistaloco - Jul 8, 2014 12:12 am

Annoying!  Sucess!

Did a fun route on the E side... 5.6ish, good rock... ropes got stuck on the way down and I had to batman up to get them. Whooops.


SawtoothSean - Jan 15, 2014 11:25 am Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2013

Good fun  Sucess!

Relatively easy hike and scramble. Couple easy , exposed moves, but really fun and great views.


JGHarrison - Aug 20, 2012 9:50 am Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2012

Normal route  Sucess!

Chill scramble. Exposed part felt easy 5th.


RyanCampagna - Aug 6, 2012 4:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2012

Good one!  Sucess!

don't look down! felt like a couple of class 5 moves, but just due to the exposure. nothing difficult about the actual climb.

dkangas - May 24, 2012 10:59 am Date Climbed: May 23, 2012

Both Summits  Sucess!

Took advantage of the early opening of TPR. Did north and south summits with Josh H. Threw in that slag pile summit south of the peak, just because it's there.

dkangas - Nov 18, 2011 12:50 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2010

Partial Cathedral Range Traverse  Sucess!

Did only the south summit block as part of a traverse of Echo Peaks, Echo Ridge and Cockscomb. Will be back for the North side!


Quadaxial - Oct 5, 2011 12:25 am Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009

Great class 4  Sucess!

Beautiful views, some protected class 4 and 5 moves for the summit block.


blueshade - Aug 12, 2011 8:45 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2011

So close...

Bagged the south summit and bypassed the middle for the higher north summit. Last peak for a successful Cathedral Traverse... and got a little spooked soloing the step across. For my first real day of climbing in the Sierras and Yosemite it was a good attempt. After another week of scrambling probably wouldn't have a problem with it now. Next time...

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Jul 1, 2011 1:18 pm

fun  Sucess!

fun solo of all 3 summits..back in 2010 on a day off from work..got some echo peaks, echo ridge, cockscomb and unicorn that day


ajacobi - Sep 6, 2010 1:48 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2010

South Ridge  Sucess!

First hike after having my legs and ankels crushed by being run over by a van last year August 2009.


seano - Aug 31, 2010 5:11 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2010

South ridge  Sucess!

Start of a partial cathedral traverse. Trip report


mdostby - Aug 26, 2010 12:49 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2010

South Ridge  Sucess!

Fun scramble from Elizabeth Lake.


WML - May 4, 2010 1:46 am Date Climbed: May 2, 2010

Way fun ski!  Sucess!

Climbed this with a good buddy of mine and dropped the NE Face of this on skis! So fun! Windboard snow up top (eich), then variable conditions and some fun/spicy tree skiing to get back to the hut. Super pretty views in the winter, the Cathedral Range is sooo rad!


A-Lex - Nov 24, 2009 1:22 pm

Part of Traverse  Sucess!

Fun, fun, fun! Great climbing!


rhyang - Sep 28, 2009 11:56 am Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2009

from Elizabeth Lake  Sucess!

Nice half-day hike / scramble from Elizabeth Lake trailhead. All three summits were fun.

Great views, beautiful day. Chatted with park ranger atop north summit.


biz - Aug 6, 2009 7:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009

Unicorn, Cockscomb, and Conness  Sucess!

Hit the North Face. Definately a couple spicy sections, but very good fun.

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