Urus Central - summit ridge detail

We hadn't been able to find out what the easiest route to the summit would be, so we just went to the mountain, looked at it and started climbing.

Urus Central has two peaks, as you can see in the picture below, but when we were approaching, we couldn't really tell which one was the summit. A direct route to either candidate looked too hard from where we were standing, especially since we didn't bring much gear. The idea was that if we couldn't find a relatively easy route, we would turn back.

We chose to climb the snow covered slopes between the two summits, hoping that higher up we would be able to tell which one was the true summit and find a way to get there. We made it as far as the ridge.

It was sharp and covered with snow. In places it was corniced as well. The photo shows only a short part of the ridge, looking east. To the western summit, the terrain was mostly rock and it looked too hard for us to even try, but we still couldn't decide which summit was higher.

It didn't really matter. At our speed, we estimated we would be lucky if we could make it to the eastern summit by nightfall, and then we would have to descend in darkness. That seemed like a bad idea, so we turned around. Later, I found out that the western summit of Urus Central is the true summit, but I still don't know what the easiest route would be.

Urus Central from the approach

24 July 2011.


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