Varnished Wall Climber's Log

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams - May 3, 2018 12:26 pm

Disco Sucks- 60’-5.6  Sucess!

Secure and easy solo climb for the grade. Jug up the huge patina jugs to a crack system and follow it to the top. Gear anchor. Rap the same rap as the routes to the left. Dow

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - May 3, 2018 12:25 pm

Presence of Grace- 50’- 5.10d*  Sucess!

This is a variation finish to Benevolence and is the better line despite not getting as much praise in the guide as Benevolence. When you get to the easy arete hand rail on Benevolence, instead traverse right and finish up through a piton (2018) via stemming onto crystals and then nailing a critical sequence at the grade. Same rap as the other routes on this left side. Dow

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - May 3, 2018 12:24 pm

Circle of Benevolence- 50’-5.10d**  Sucess!

The easiest 5.10d I have climbed at Jtree. Make some side pull-mantle moves to get started through two bolts up the left side of the large varnished face, just meters to the right of Malice. A gratuitous heel hook works well (not a dramatic one) after the first clip. When you reach the arête on Malice, you are suppose to hand rail it to the top which makes for easy climbing. Could not identify the 5.10d move nor agree with the two star recommendation. Same rap as mentioned with Malice. Dow

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - May 3, 2018 12:23 pm

With Malice and Forethought- 45’-5.7*  Sucess!

Climb up the obvious thin crack/corner on the left side of the wall, clipping a bolt on the left face and stemming to the right side arete and up to the shared slung rap (2018) with the next three routes. Small rack. Dow

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Apr 29, 2018 11:04 am

Mosaic- 60’-5.8  Sucess!

Climb the dark rock face through the first bolt, just right of the arête, and finish up the rest of the route via easy crack climbing for the grade. You can still rap off the same rap as the routes to the left. Dow

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Apr 28, 2018 3:40 pm Date Climbed: Apr 21, 2018

Crank Queenie- 60’-5.8*  Sucess!

One of the stellar 5.8 leads in Indian Cove: the obvious seam on the right side of the wall in the lessor quality granite. Climb the steep grooved rail via shallow intermittent hands and fingers. It finishes in the darker varnish on great hands, then up and left to form a gear belay. Rap off the rap for the left wall routes. Standard rack. Dow

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