Hi. Having done this route a couple of times, I want to suggest the following change. It would be good to add a specific mention that after climbing the starting dihedral one stays left of the arete for about a pitch. Don't avoid the arete for too long after this (especially not several pitches, as the current description says) or you'll miss some of the most classic moves on this route. About a pitch after the starting dihedral, angle up and right to reach the crest of the arete, and make use of a perfect jam crack that goes directly up the arete over a bulge. That's one of the best moments (if not the best) on the whole route, when the bulge looks difficult then turns out to be awesome because of the sinker hand/fist jams and a big jug to step on.
The current description also does not mention another spot that is critical to finding some of the finest climbing on the route. After topping the first tower and a bit of subsequent up-and-down, the gully at climber's left puts forth a branch that becomes a chimney-sized chute (about 4 feet wide?) that comes between the rock you're standing on and the continuation of the arete (a buttress, at climber's left, rising on the far side of this chimney/gap). Step across the gap to the left. It's visually scary but not difficult. Then get directly on the arete again and some of the very best climbing appears, even through sections that didn't look easy from below.
Also in the "additional information" paragraph you could add that Peter Croft gives good beta for Venusian Blind in his book The Good, The Great, and The Awesome from Maximus Press.
Eric O - Aug 12, 2005 1:14 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentHi. Having done this route a couple of times, I want to suggest the following change. It would be good to add a specific mention that after climbing the starting dihedral one stays left of the arete for about a pitch. Don't avoid the arete for too long after this (especially not several pitches, as the current description says) or you'll miss some of the most classic moves on this route. About a pitch after the starting dihedral, angle up and right to reach the crest of the arete, and make use of a perfect jam crack that goes directly up the arete over a bulge. That's one of the best moments (if not the best) on the whole route, when the bulge looks difficult then turns out to be awesome because of the sinker hand/fist jams and a big jug to step on.
The current description also does not mention another spot that is critical to finding some of the finest climbing on the route. After topping the first tower and a bit of subsequent up-and-down, the gully at climber's left puts forth a branch that becomes a chimney-sized chute (about 4 feet wide?) that comes between the rock you're standing on and the continuation of the arete (a buttress, at climber's left, rising on the far side of this chimney/gap). Step across the gap to the left. It's visually scary but not difficult. Then get directly on the arete again and some of the very best climbing appears, even through sections that didn't look easy from below.
Also in the "additional information" paragraph you could add that Peter Croft gives good beta for Venusian Blind in his book The Good, The Great, and The Awesome from Maximus Press.