Venusian Blind Arete Climber's Log

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Jul 27, 2020 5:19 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2020

Venetian Blind and Moon Goddess Solo  Sucess!

Dark Star was my first climb at Temple many years ago. I returned to guide Sun Ribbon once which left these aretes yet to do. Started hiking from 3rd lake at 5am (way quieter to camp now as 2nd lake was in full on party mode), summitted Venetian at 8am, returned via some 3rd-5th class ledges to the shared start and summitted Moon Goddess by 11:30. From a solo perspective, Moon Goddess was by far the better route. Steeper and more sustained mid 5th climbing. The 5.9 variation felt secure for a competent soloist, all cracks. Venetian felt like a Canadian Rockies scramble more than a climb. Passed three climbers (only other climbers on Temple on a perfect weather Sunday) at the base of the snow field who were climbing Venetian. Lapped them when I went back up on Moon and they were still climbing when I made my final descent to camp. But, they had enough expensive clothes to start a retirement fund! and it was a warm day. I looked like a homeless person in comparison. "Climbing" means something different today than it use to. And Chris's topo was spot on!!!! all the complaining on MP.com about folks getting lost on both routes is on themselves. Could he have been more precise? Not possible re a topo.

Alex.k - Jun 23, 2018 10:36 am Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2018

Vensuian Blind  Sucess!

First technical alpine route with Devyn

westhegimp

westhegimp - Aug 11, 2013 7:25 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2005

First time climbing in the mountains.  Sucess!

Fourth classed it with Michael. RIP Brotha.

fossana

fossana - Jul 19, 2011 8:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2011

solo link-up with MGA  Sucess!

Unwilling to slog in to do T-bolt to Sill so sadly doing laps on Temple.

WML

WML - Apr 2, 2011 2:01 pm Date Climbed: Apr 1, 2011

Spring attempt on V-Blind

After a casual stroll in over some snow on the last day of March, April Fools Day was spent on the lower portion of Venusian Blind Arete. We forgot that casual approaches shouldn't cross over to the climb; a late start and intriguing mixed climbing and snow-covered rock lead to lots of climbing ropeless with crampons. And then climbing roped with crampons. And then eventually making a call that bivying on a route is not an option, we opted to bail and rap.

Definitely worth coming back for a summer trip, climb looks 90% soloable! Even more if I manage to get stronger

fossana

fossana - Aug 24, 2010 11:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2010

solo  Sucess!

Perfect Aug day and a freeway on Venusian (Moon Goddess, SRA and Dark Start had only 1 party each). Passed 3 parties and topped out just behind a 4th (a 5th was sitting at the top). Of course the one time I bring crampons for Temple I didn't need them. Chalk it up to extra pack weight training. Car-to-car in my usual time 10:55 +/- 5 min with plenty of summit block loitering.

bdynkin - Oct 14, 2009 4:37 pm Date Climbed: Apr 15, 2004

April climb  Sucess!

Low snow year so actually no big deal. Lakes were all frozen and very pretty. Started at 3pm and returned to car next day at 11pm. Climbing felt easy but altitude and route finding...

granjero

granjero - Sep 9, 2009 7:42 pm

Pretty fun!!!  Sucess!

Entertaining route

kevin trieu

kevin trieu - Sep 9, 2008 1:11 am

supah!  Sucess!

fun. will need to come back and lead it.

Bonesaw

Bonesaw - Jul 18, 2008 8:49 pm Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2008

AWESOME SUMMIT!  Sucess!

Venusian Blind route in early June. Still a fair amount of snow, but not too bad. Great route and an even better summit. Very cool! Route was fairly long but not difficult.

Romain

Romain - Jun 29, 2008 8:28 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2008

Fun climb  Sucess!

Climbed with 4 friends (Hector, Robert, Stephanie on one rope, Johann and I on the other). Met two other parties - Michelle (fossana) and Miguel (forjan), and two climbers from Bishop named Ira and Kimberly.
The climb was fun but easier than I had expected - the ST 5.7 pitches felt like 5.6. The crux seemed the 5.6 left side traverse on P5. 12.5 hours camp to camp.

forjan

forjan - Jun 26, 2008 12:28 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2008

Back with Tomb Raider  Sucess!

Free soloed with Michelle in 10 hrs 49 min car-to-car. Like Michelle said, it was quite busy on VB for a Wednesday. 7 other people on the route. Ran into Romain and Hector on SuperTopo's pitch 3.

fossana

fossana - Jun 25, 2008 10:13 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2008

busy wed on vb  Sucess!

Soloed with Miguel as a day trip. Ran into Romain and friends en route and at the top of Contact Pass. Nine of us in total starting around the same time :( Miguel and I did a variation on loose rock to bypass the hordes.

Agree with 2 SPers below that the route seemed more like 5.6. The scariest part was crossing the firm snowfield in the morning sans crampons with a sharp rock to self-arrest.

Shirley Lam

Shirley Lam - Jan 30, 2008 10:29 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006

Twice...  Sucess!

First time, we were a bit off route and had to leave a cam in the wall...everything was so rotten! Staying on route the second time around was great.

bighornmonkey

bighornmonkey - Jan 14, 2008 6:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006

Done...  Sucess!

I lead this route twice. Awesome!

jmc

jmc - Oct 16, 2007 10:20 am Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2007

Fun and way easy  Sucess!

Based on the hardest single move, OK 5.7. Even though we intended to rope up at on the ledges, we freed the first eight pitches, nothing more than 5.4 until then. We used the chimney (not really part of the route, it's can be bypassed) to avoid the icey snow, that was harder than anything else on the route, but still 5.7. With only 3 hours on route, it left a little to be desired, but because of scattered rain, it was the right route for the day. It was fun, and it was a good climb, I will go back, we didn't tag the top of Temple Crag because of the weather.

Desert Solitaire

Desert Solitaire - Sep 19, 2007 6:55 pm Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2007

Good Climb, Loose Rock  Sucess!

Good climbing with my friend Brian E. Nice alpine feel to the whole climb, and the rating seemed a bit easier than 5.7. Plenty of options for belays and routefinding. The route does seem over-hyped, especially because of the abundance of loose rock on the route. Still recommend it to others however. : ]

jmc

jmc - Oct 16, 2007 10:25 am

Re: Good Climb, Loose Rock

I agree about the loose rock, but mostly in places that were not steep so easy to avoid. I would not like to have a party directly above me though.

stoneman5

stoneman5 - Aug 8, 2006 1:39 am

good, but not that good . . .

thought this was something of an overrated route, but that makes me disagree with Croft and McNamara and Moynier, and who ya gonna believe!
But compared to, say, the East Face of Whitney, the rock and climbing both were significantly less interesting, I can't really recall doing more than one or two 5.7 moves in a row. That said, it is in a great location and has good alpine feel.

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