Hi, I was planning to do this route next week or so. Found this route description pretty useful, contains all info one needs to climb.
1. Can you please clarify what you mean by traditional route here? Are these 23 pitches all bolted? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traditional_climbing
2. Can you recommend a cheap hotel close by to facilitate an early start?
Hi, I would say this route is more sport climbing. All the belays are bolted and there are some bolts during every pitch. Like all rock climbing routes: the easier the climbing, the less bolts you'll have.
I think the route stays pretty wet for a long time after rain. Maybe it is good to check it in advance? I can not help you with a hotel, because we sleped in a shed :).
Thank for the clarification.
Another query: according to the map Freggio is only about 2 kms from Faido; i suppose one can walk from Faido instead of waiting for the bus?
I suppose you can walk from Faido. We parked our car in Freggio. From Freggio it's about 30 minutes to the start of the route.
which we did on 22 May. We stayed overnight in Osco (50 CHF half pension). Faido to Osco takes about 1.5 hrs. We vacated the hostel around 5am, took our stuff and walked down to freggio (less than an hour), then hid our unwanted belongings in the descent trail. Climbed the route in about 7 hours, picked up our belongings on the way back and walked down to Faido to catch the train.
Superb bolts, well-marked, solid rock, overall pretty nice but i didn't find it easy!
Just a small clarification: According the the guidebook we used (and it seemed correct), the pitches are 4a, 2a, 3c, 3c, 5a, 4b, 3b, 4b, 5a, 4b, 5a, 3c, 3a, 5a, 3c, 3c, 4a, 4a, 3c, 3a, 3b, 4b.
I finally added your addition acording to the grades. Forgot about it.