Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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45.36800°N / 121.709°W |
Route Type:
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Ice Climb |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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AI 3+ |
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Approach
Start as mentioned on Illumination Rock main page. From Illumination Saddle, traverse Zigzag Glacier just South of Illuminaion Rock. Climb into the gully separting the W Ridge and SW ridge. So far, just basic glacier travel (little threat of crevasses).Route Description
From the gully, climb onto the SW Ridge. From here it is several pitches of AI3 through AI4. See photo. All rime ice. Good belays, alot of exposure. |
Essential Gear
You'll need pickets and screws. Two tools recommended. Two ropes for long rapelles on descent would be helpful, possibly a light rock rack if you want to descend directly into Ill. Saddle or South off cliff. Otherwise use ice bollards to rapel into gully.Miscellaneous Info
Here are a couple trip reports:Summer climb on the SW Ridge
A winter climb
KMM - Oct 22, 2007 1:56 pm - Hasn't voted
Trip reports on cascadeclimbersi found two trip reports for this route on cascadeclimbers.com maybe you should add them to the page. this one in summer http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=7&Number=577666&Searchpage=1&Main=43082&Words=Illumination&topic=0&Search=true#Post577666 this one in winter http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/printthread.php/Cat/0/Board/UBB28/main/550240/type/thread
sshankle - Oct 26, 2007 7:32 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Trip reports on cascadeclimbersDone! Thanks! I can't wait to get out there and try it again.