Sengchuppa

Overview

Sengchuppa is a little mountain just north of Fletschhorn (in the Weissmies-Lagginhorn-Fletschhorn range). It lies in a non-touristic surrounding, because it's little compared to his neighbours and there is not a large hut in the neighbourhood. Nevertheless it is worth a tour, because the surrounding is adventuruous - there is no path towards the bivouac used for the normal route - and provides beautiful views. The normal route takes the northwest glacier slopes from the Fletschhorn bivouac, which are up to 30-35 degrees. On the summit you have beautiful views towards the high mountains around the Saas Valley, especially to the Mischabel range in the west. The bivouac used on the normal route, the Fletschhorn bivouac, was build by students somewhere around the second world war (I couldn't find the exact date until now). I did not find any information about the first ascend of this mountain, so if you find, you can email me.

Getting There

The normal route is approached from the Saas valley. You start either from Saas Balen or Gspon, which can be reached by cable car fron Stalden. You can reach both Stalden and Saas Balen by car. First drive to Visp in the Rhone valley (in Wallis/Valais), than enter the valley towards Zermatt. Stalden is on the split of the Saas and Zermatt valleys, Saas Balen is in the Saas valley (logically).

Normal route

From the starting place - Saas Baalen or Gspon - you have to walk to the Mattwaldalpa (2300m, 7650 feet), a large flat area of green grass. From there head up in the eastward direction into the broad valley in front of you. There's no path -you have to find your own way! There are also not much stonemans or that kind of things. The Fletschhorn bivouac at 3030m (10100 feet) is only to be seen when you're almost there. The place of the bivouac can be recognized by a large stoneman. This bivouac is the starting point for climbing Sengchuppa the next day. From the bivouac you head on the easy north-west glacier slopes. At 3300m - 11000feet you turn towards the east towards the col between Sengchuppa and Gamserchopf. Than turn towards the south/southwest direction and climb the snow/ice slope/ridge towards the summit (30/35 degrees). Gradation of the normal route is F (French) or L (German). Up to 30/35 degrees snow/ice. The Fletschhorn bivouac contains about 10 places - most times this is enough. Orientation equipment needed because there is no path towards the Fletschhorn bivouac, it can be hard to find it if you haven't been there before! This climb takes 2 days: one day to the bivouac, one day to the summit and down to the valley.

Accomodation during climb

There's one bivouac you can stay overnight for climbing Sengchuppa's normal way: the Fletschhorn bivouac at 3030m/10100m. On old maps it is also marked with the name 'Fletschhorn hut'. The bivouac can be used during the whole year. There is no ward, you can leave a small contribution at the bivouac. There are 6 to 8 places The bivouac can be recognized by a large stoneman aside it (it is hard to see). Internet info about the bivouac: www.hutten.be more info from SAC For extreme routes: down the east wall the bivouac 'Zen' is situated on 3014m/10050feet. This is also the strating point for the Wiener route on the north face of Fletschhorn, Sengchuppa's big neighbour.

Equipment + orientation material

Needed: standard glacier travel equipment (rope, ice axe, crampons, harness etc). Maps => 1:25000 Swiss national map, SLK 1309 Simplon online purchase of 1:25000 maps

Time needed

From Saas Baalen to Fletschhorn bivouac: approx 5-6 hours From Gspon to Fletschhorn bivouac: approx 5-6 hours From Fletschhorn bivouac to Sengchuppa summit: approx 2 hours

Season

The normal way to Sengchuppa is easy, and can probably be climbed through the whole year => check avanches in case of winter conditions.

Accomodation in valley

There are many places to camp around the Saas valley. I can recommend camping Mischabel just south of Saas Grund, really nice Belgians run this nice place. camping mischabel In Saas Balen or Gspon there is no campsite, neither in Stalden. If you don't want to stay on a campsite but don't want something to expensive, you can stay in a dormitory. There are many in Saas Grund and Saas Fee. You can already stay there for about 15 euro's per night. By the way, at the Mischabel campsite there is also a simple tiny wooden cottage you can rent (only about 10 euro's!). For car parking: in Saas Baalen and Stalden you vcan park your car. Gspon can hardly be reaches by car I believe (with 4-wheel drive no problem of course), I don't know if there are any parking facilities there.

External links

Fletschhorn hut/bivouac info more Fletschhorn but/bivouac info online purchase 1:25000 map site camping Mischabel

Webcam

To have a global view on the snow conditions, you can check out this webcam at Saas Fee