Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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36.31314°N / 50.75298°E |
Route Type:
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Hiking, Mountaineering |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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A few days |
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Overview
While the south slope of Shah-Alborz looks not steep and technicaly hard, finding a good approach to the summits may be confusing.
The reason is having to many hills, high and lows and the long distance that wont let have a good estimate how and when.
The starting points are all from Taleghan valley north villages, but Hasanjoon village is the best starting point as it has the most straight forward route to the highest peak of Shah-Alborz (this writing is exclusively for this route).
Dangers on the route :
Wild animals :
The whole south slopes of Shah-Alborz seems to be involved with the wild-life of animals like small and larg brown-bears, wolves...
Shepherd dogs :
There are a lot of shephered dogs, they wont hesitate to bite you if you get into their domination and disregard their warnings, if you can't call the owner the best way is to by pass them.
Winter conditions :
Taleghan has serious winters, the route is too easy for summer but needs a lot of care for winter, it would become a typical hard non technical winter climb.
Profile :
The south slopes of Shah-Alborz are not ragged, glacial and steep walled like the north face.
Instead of scree, rocks and stones the ground is mostly soil and vegetated with grass and other short plans most of the time at summer, and covered by snow the other seasons.
* Descending on this route takes a lot of time almost as long as the ascending.
There is no huts on this route, the climber sould have a tent for camping.
I would recommand camping in a safe place maybe near the shepherds capms because of the danger of wild animals.
Estimate climbing time :
Summer :
Local people and guids suggest 3 days.
I would say 2 days.
Can be done in a 15-17 hours almost a deadly, non-stop hike in one day.
Winter :
Depending on the conditions more than 3 days.
Getting There
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Route Description
| Part one : Hasanjoon village to Doorban. 1-3 hours Assume you are at Hasanjoon village, you have to hike the village upward until you finish it it's some how steep, you can have questions form the locals they are really helpfull, kind and cultured unlike many people who live in big cities. Follow the trail beside the gardens, the river should be at your right side, and you should gain height against of the river. there is a small water channel, don't follow the channel it would take you down the to the river and climbing up is really hard. after the gardens there is a wast field loose some height and go to the end. hint : at least you will reach the river in a plane.  After the gardens
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Essential Gear
Summer :Summer clothes for the day.
Warm clothes for the night,the night becomes dramaticly cold compared to the day.
Winter :
Crampoons and rope for safty, so you wont slip down the steep slopes when the route gets too narrow.