Resolution Arete, V, 5.11d

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Resolution Arete, V, 5.11d

Resolution Arete, V, 5.11d

10th Pitch- 75’- 5.11d or 5.9+, C1/ Climb up and place a 4” and then either aid or free the roof crack as you move right, starting out with a 1” and .5” and placing a .75” at the corner before you actually turn the roof by swinging out onto a face and up the crack above. We combined the 10th and 11th pitches, but I do not suggest you do this as the rope can get entangled with any cam placed at the end of the roof. I feel we got lucky in this regard. Follow the crack to a belay stance. (photo) Resolution Arete, V, 5.11d, Mount Wilson, Red Rocks, NV, April, 2009
Dow Williams
on Apr 16, 2009 4:07 pm
Image Type(s): Rock Climbing
Image ID: 506573

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rpc

rpc - Apr 16, 2009 7:30 pm - Voted 10/10

looks

pretty damn hard...as I guess it well should be at 11d! :)

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Apr 16, 2009 7:51 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: looks

long day Radek, made me think I was in the Canadian Rockies for a sec...the climbing beyond that Watana route would have been pretty fast and furious...but I assumed you rapped the route....have not added it here yet though eh?

rpc

rpc - Apr 16, 2009 7:55 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: looks

Yeah, want to save RA for an RA outing (vs. IW to RA finish). Yeah, rapped as planned down the route in 9 double ropes. Have not submitted it (lazy) -- all yours when you get the chance Dow. Nice resolution page too BTW.

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Apr 16, 2009 8:01 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: looks

But I won't climb it until you submit it now that I know you have climbed it, lazy bastard. I always prefer to have your beta. Some more weird temps. Down right cold and rainy these past few days. Stacy and I might climb Group Therapy or something similar Sun. Have your notes printed out. Was gong to do Community Pillar, but you sure did not give it very good reviews. Cheers

rpc

rpc - Apr 17, 2009 1:53 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: looks

:)

Dow, after Resolution, Inti will feel like a short day of cragging (appreciate your kind word on my beta tho. Sir :) ....all belays bolted, well protected everywhere, crux is NTB we thought (short definitely), no route finding issues, and majority of the line is a just a joyful cruise!

One piece of beta seems to be to stay in the main gully on the way down vs. traversing back into white rot gully used on approach. 2 rap's are involved witht he 2nd one being skiier's left at bottom of gully (bolts on ledge).

Whoever gets to lead the roof pitch & link with next pitch (P9&10) is the winner of the day IMHO (funnest pitches!).

Community Pillar is not bad it's just that my fat ass had issues fitting thru. the slot on the first 40 feet of P1 (Shirley had no such issues & I'm sure neither would Stacy)....probably more interesting than GT. Enjoy!

pvalchev

pvalchev - May 14, 2010 4:16 pm - Voted 10/10

Great shot!

Nice job tackling this one, looks fun!

Viewing: 1-6 of 6