West Face, 5.10RX

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West Face, 5.10RX

West Face, 5.10RX

1st-2nd Pitches- 50m- 5.9R/ Confusing pitch via the “book of lies”. Sean mentions a 5.9 first pitch and then a 5.8 A1 second pitch (or is he describing the 2nd half of the 1st pitch?). In any regard, I supposedly combined these pitches as he described them with no need for aid. Perhaps he was referring to placing aid on the final run out section which did feel like stout 5.8. Start up the obvious corner just 50m to the right of the north face. Easy climbing gets you to several overhangs, both of which can be surpassed on the left via vertical fun moves over somewhat precarious blocks of limestone. There is plenty of pro opportunities to get you above these two overhangs. Then traverse right and up on edges to access a closed corner to the right. Stay out of the corner utilizing 5.8 type holds to climb run out ground that reaches a small ledge at the top of the corner with a bolted belay/rappel. West Face, 5.10RX, 8 Pitches, Roche Miette, Jasper National Park, Canadian Rockies, August, 2009
Dow Williams
on Aug 13, 2009 3:34 pm
Image Type(s): Rock Climbing
Image ID: 540484

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KenGlover

KenGlover - Aug 20, 2009 11:50 pm - Voted 10/10

pitch 3 above?

I'm liking these beta images on a relatively little-known route! Is that pitch 3 coming up in the broad corner up and right of the climber?

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Aug 22, 2009 5:56 am - Hasn't voted

Re: pitch 3 above?

I guess Ken...it was pitch 2 the way we climbed it...pitch 3 in the "book of lies" I suppose....that is me in the photo...there is no way I felt I did two pitches or any need to break what I led into two, nor any aid required, but the face to climb to transition into the corner is completely run out and that section of the corner is closed. Cheers

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