East Ridge

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 48.10422°N / 120.94274°W
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)
Additional Information Grade: III
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

This feature was named the Zen Arete by the first ascensionists, and as the name promises has almost 2000 vertical feet and over half a mile of blissful granite climbing in a serene setting. The ridge is highly featured with consistently solid and fairly easy climbing, lending itself to fast and comfortable travel. The area is very quiet and visitors are unlikely to encounter other parties on the route.

Getting There

Follow the instructions on the main page to the basin on the East side of Berge, option 2 will be fastest. From treeline travel to the distinct ridge, with two steep towers near its base, and gain the crest via any reasonable route. A 100 meter tall loose gully gains the crest just uphill of the twin towers on the North side, many steep, shallow corners lead up on both the North and South sides of the ridge, and easy meadows merge with the crest on the South side of the ridge a couple hundred feet uphill of the toe.

Route Description

From the ridge crest in the vicinity of the twin towers low on the ridge plan on nearly 300 meters of low to mid-fifth class climbing on the ridge crest, with several prominent flat ridge-top sections where the outstanding view of the Entiats and the North side of Buck can be appreciated. Eventually a significant notch is reached with a steep, dirty, deep corner leading out of it which can be climbed directly to stay on the ridge crest proper. Or ledges traverse to climber's right which can also be followed before climbing another crack system back to the ridge crest.

After the deep corner another 300 meters of low to mid-fifth class terrain along the crest continues all the way to the summit. Many ledge systems and cracks criss-cross the ridgeline and allow for many variations to be taken to the top.

Essential Gear

Rock rack to 2". Rope. Ice axe before August.

Descent

Scramble terrain between the summit and High Pass and between the summit and the Buck-Berge gap allow for a low-stress descent. Descend to the West to enter the basin on the Southwest side of High Pass for an easy climb over High Pass and descent down the East side of Berge back to Buck Creek. It is also reasonable to descend to the South and then East to reach Buck-Berge gap and then scramble across talus back underneath the East Ridge towards Buck Creek.

Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.