Champagne

Overview

Champagne is a less-travelled moderate route on Snow Creek Wall, offering an uncrowded alternative to Orbit and Outer Space. The route is not as high-quality (two-star versus three and four), but it a great introduction to the area, with exciting, exposed climbing. Expect some dirtiness, and bring a wire brush and chock pick to help make these sections more enjoyable (especially on the approach pitch's first moves, and the crux section of the first proper pitch).

Getting There

Hike the Snow Creek Trail 2 miles to where it nears Snow Creek. Look for a side trail and follow it to a log crossing, then proceed up a steep climber's trail the base of Snow Creek Wall (the start to Outer Space). Stash packs in trees here, or bring with for a carry-over. Follow a climber's trail along the wall to the right (North) to the base of the gully at Easter Tower.

Route Description

Pitch 0

Climb gully to the notch at Easter Tower. The first move is awkward; do not try to avoid pulling the chockstone up over climber's left. 200 feet, 5.8.

Pitch 1

Ascend crack/left-facing corner on climber's right to a ledge. Head straight up here (5.8) or traverse the ledge left and head up cracks and chickenheads to a ledge and anchor with slings (5.7). Long pitch, 5.7



Pitch 2

Facing the wall, move right a few feet to a thin crack. Ascend the crack and chicken heads, placing some pro in the crack (which peters out quickly), then clip a spinner bolt. Trend up and right, running out a bit or sling chicken heads. Cross into a gully (which takes pro) and continue up the gully or to the right on chicken heads heading towards an obvious ledge on climber's right. Build a gear anchor here. Long pitch, 5.5

Pitch 3

Ascend a crack and features to a squeeze chimney. Work up the chimney. Pro is sparse, and a bit run out, but easy. Medium pitch, 5.6+



Pitch 4

Ascend blocky terrain up and right. Some looseness here. Medium pitch, 5.0.

Pitch 5

Look for a left-trending gulley on the right near a small tree. Climb to the ridge top. Medium pitch, 5.4-5.6

Pitch 6

Traverse left to an obvious rappel anchor. Short pitch, 5.0

Essential Gear

Mid-size rack with gear up to 3". Bring a few small cams, and a couple 3" pieces.

External Links

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Images

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