Class 4 Chimney

Class 4 Chimney

This is the "middle option" for reaching the wide ledge above the final drop into Buckskin. Two chockstones make this pitch Class 4. You may have to remove your pack to get through. There is a cairn near the top of the pitch to help with locating it. Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness, Utah-- April 2013
Bob Sihler
on Apr 15, 2013 6:49 am
Image Type(s): Informational
Image ID: 846410

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waheisel

waheisel - Apr 18, 2016 9:57 am - Hasn't voted

Middle option Middle route

I think I am going to try this next month during a visit to Kanab. I have looked at most every post, page and video on the web. Your description is the best. Thanks. I think I am going to go for this middle option, and like your wife, I think I might get a little anxious about the exposure from the drop from the wide ledge. So I am going to bring a rope. But as I don't think I am too big for the chimney, and will have a rope, this looks physically and mentally doable. Is there a traverse across a narrower ledge and a short slide down the crack between the bottom of the chimney and the wide ledge? I can't find a picture on the web to definitively answer that. Thanks again! Bill.

Bob Sihler

Bob Sihler - Apr 20, 2016 7:05 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Middle option Middle route

Hi Bill,

It was a few years ago, but I don't remember any exposure issues for me getting from the base of the chimney to the crack/corner system that gets you to the bottom. Of course, exposure can be subjective, but the only exposure of the three variations that unnerved me at all was the last one I described, which I don't recommend. But the chimney to the corner wasn't bad, in my opinion. I hope this helps some, and enjoy; it's a great place!

waheisel

waheisel - Apr 20, 2016 10:15 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Middle option Middle route

That does help, Bob. Thanks again!

Scott

Scott - Apr 20, 2016 11:41 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Middle option Middle route

One thing to keep in mind is that the difficulty of the route depends on whether or not it is covered in sand, which happens fairly often. When the route is clear of sand, it is a fun and straightforward scramble that any experienced desert rat can do. When there is sand on the route, it becomes difficult and can be slippery and dangerous.

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