Three Hour Arete

The attributes of clean, varied, aesthetic, good position, and just plain fun, make Three Hour Arete one of the better multi-pitch climbs at Pine Creek.  The short, easy approach only helps. 

From the Hwy. 395/Pine Creek Rd. junction drive approx. 8.3 miles West on Pine Creek Rd. and park at a nice turn out with fine black/brown gravel on the North side of the road (about 200 feet before a creek crossing with metal barriers).  Look for a well worn trail that heads SW from the parking area.  Follow that trail for about 200 feet and turn 90 degrees on an overgrown sand/dirt road/trail.  Pass a small wash and continue on the same road/trail.  Look for a faint trail that branches off to the West and leads toward the base of the buttress (which is visible the entire time).  Scramble up a short 3rd class section at the toe of the buttress to gain the start of the route.  This is the left hand route, marked by a bolt and subsequent low angle corner/crack.  Approach time is approx. 10 minutes.

P1 - A few stiff face/thin flake moves take one past the bolt and crux (5.9) of the first pitch.  Alternately (easier, watch rope drag) it is possible to go left around the corner and then straight up to gain the lower angle section.  Follow the beautiful low angle lieback corner, traverse right a few feet, then continue up the sweet lieback/jam crack.  Belay at a bolt (plus supplemental gear) or set your own belay before or after.  Long pitch, beautiful climbing.

P2 - Climb up a few feet to a thin crack that traverses out of the corner diagonally to the right.  Gain a nice crack, move up 15' or so, then traverse right onto the face, and continue up over the roof/lip.  Angle back left a bit and climb the face close to the arete, following bolts.  The next belay is on a large ledge above.

P3 - From the anchor, follow bolts up the face to the next ledge.  Shorter pitch.

P4 - From the anchor, clip a bolt and make the crux (10b/c or A0), boulder move out to the left in order go over the bulge and gain the arete.  (Note: the Hall Pass variation traverses left on thin slab moves past the initial crux move, then continues up to the same anchor - 12 bolts)  Continue up the face/arete on excellent edges (5.9/10a - 9 bolts).

Single 60m rope rap (knot ends!) - Last rappel is from the top of P1 Strike Slip anchors!   

Full rack to 2" (3" optional).  It is possible to leave nuts/cams at the top of P2 and continue with just draws, if so inclined.