Decent lead for the budding trad leader. They have a bolt at about mid way for that reason no doubt. A right leaning ramp just to the left of High Desert Drifter with its own sort of hand rail, but not as dramatic. Chain rap. Single to #2.
Excellent, but short route at the grade (30'). The crux is the start, a bit slabby and sandy for the feet as you reach the start of the flake rail where you get a solid #1 placed. Then just fun hand railing right and up to one more move over a bench to reach a fixed rap.
After leading this and then checking in on MP.com, I thought these two different quotes were quite accurate: "5.9 is an enormous sandbag. It is solid 5.10 compared to other routes at the grade in Indian Creek. Maybe the "jug" broke off because it does not exist anymore" and "there are hundreds of easier 5.10s around Moab. This is thing is hard. If you're at your limit, protect the roof well. The party after me took a fall at the crux and hit the slab HARD." This is definitely a sandbag for Wallstreet where I normally find the grades much easier than the many tower pitches I have led in the area. Hell, I led every pitch of the Grand Plan the day before and though this crux was as difficult as any on it. Maybe something did break? The guide says gear to #2 but MP.com and I both suggest a #3 as well. Small single rack will do. The crux is the roof, very physical and awkward hands as well as body position. I meter of solid 5.10 at the crux with consequences if you did not protect it adequately.
February 4 2017
January 29 2017
Grama and Blue Suede Shoes
November 14 2016
Neopolitan with variations
November 26 2015
November 28 2014
November 15 2014
December 1 2013
Top Rope Area 5.5's to 5.8's
Wall street basically is a wall right off the street. 10 min from downtown moab. many many many routes from 5.6 to the insano 5.14.
Climbed a few routes in the school room area.
I usually stop in Wallstreed in Moab - sometimes only for a couple of routes. Fun and easy, good in a bad weather or after mountain biking.
Have climbed at wall street many times over the last few years. Its a fun place in the middle of the week when you don't have to wait 30 minutes to get on a route.
Just one route in this place while we were waiting for the snow to melt in Arches. Will hit this place again someday. TR here.
Killer approach hike though - not sure if I'm up to it again ;)