This would be a spectacular climb in clear weather. It was somewhat less so in constant clouds and intermittent drizzle, but we still saw a few cool-looking things. We took the lower ridge to the route to avoid crevasses, and suffered some lousy talus by cutting left too low. This would be a harder mistake to make on a clear day. A very reasonable dayhike from the Wedgemount Lake TH. Trip report.
Fun climb....a second tool would have been helpful in one spot...a few variations up top, we scrambled up the rock route on the right and came down the arete of snow/ice
bc44caesar - Sep 6, 2010 11:04 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2010
Northeast Arete
Steep trail to the hut! We went up through the icefall (two tools were helpful) and enjoyed the final ridge climb to the summit. Followed the ridge all the way down to bypass the icefall. Cloudy day, snowed on us on the summit, and heavy rain back to the parking area. Fun climb though!
Skied the NW couloir (45-50°) in icy/hard conditions. Still fun.
Nice mountain and backcountry skiing area.
ClimberMan420 - Dec 13, 2007 9:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2007
Sweet view and route
North East arete. It was a really good climb a lot easier than expected but footsteps helped minimize the exposure. Great view from summit being the highest in Garibaldi Park, we came down the west ridge to make it a traverse but regretted it because it was very long on terrible scree, with footsteps and good snow we should have come back down the arete.
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: October 10, 2005
Do not attempt the summit when 20mm of rain is forecasted and 30mm actually falls. It was just barely freezing at 7500 feet with 70-80km winds. We could see only 20 feet in front and had to negotiate cravasses only when we got right up to them. We will be back to have our way with you one day Wedge. Watch out for Big Red. Don't let his moustache fool you. You may be asked to shoot a movie with him and it won't be pretty as the cabin is cramped and his hair screems bow-chicka-bow-chika..........
I've been up Wedge many times, but only up the North Ridge once. It was a beautiful climb, and well worth the hike to get there. I had a fall half way up. Had an old pair of leather climbing boots and my crampons didn't fit perfectly - so there you go. Stupid mistake but I was still a novice.
Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: July 1996
A good climb. The snow was not stable einough for us to decend the way we came up so we traveresed the summit and made our way down the west side. Up over hill and dale saw us back to the cabin and eventually the car.
gimpilator - Oct 20, 2017 3:27 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2017
35th Birthday Solo HikeDid a day-trip to celebrate my birthday. Trip report
seano - Jul 5, 2016 2:56 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2016
NE ridgeThis would be a spectacular climb in clear weather. It was somewhat less so in constant clouds and intermittent drizzle, but we still saw a few cool-looking things. We took the lower ridge to the route to avoid crevasses, and suffered some lousy talus by cutting left too low. This would be a harder mistake to make on a clear day. A very reasonable dayhike from the Wedgemount Lake TH. Trip report.
hunterslee - Dec 16, 2011 12:57 am
Northeast RidgeFun climb....a second tool would have been helpful in one spot...a few variations up top, we scrambled up the rock route on the right and came down the arete of snow/ice
bc44caesar - Sep 6, 2010 11:04 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2010
Northeast AreteSteep trail to the hut! We went up through the icefall (two tools were helpful) and enjoyed the final ridge climb to the summit. Followed the ridge all the way down to bypass the icefall. Cloudy day, snowed on us on the summit, and heavy rain back to the parking area. Fun climb though!
Ski Mountaineer - Feb 6, 2009 11:13 am
Ski Descent NW couloirSkied the NW couloir (45-50°) in icy/hard conditions. Still fun.
Nice mountain and backcountry skiing area.
ClimberMan420 - Dec 13, 2007 9:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2007
Sweet view and routeNorth East arete. It was a really good climb a lot easier than expected but footsteps helped minimize the exposure. Great view from summit being the highest in Garibaldi Park, we came down the west ridge to make it a traverse but regretted it because it was very long on terrible scree, with footsteps and good snow we should have come back down the arete.
Alpine72 - Jan 11, 2006 8:07 am
Route Climbed: Standard scree route Date Climbed: Aug 26A solo trip crossing the Wedge glacier with a cold bivy in the Parkhurst Wedge col.
I Love Snow Cones - Oct 12, 2005 11:32 am
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: October 10, 2005Do not attempt the summit when 20mm of rain is forecasted and 30mm actually falls. It was just barely freezing at 7500 feet with 70-80km winds. We could see only 20 feet in front and had to negotiate cravasses only when we got right up to them. We will be back to have our way with you one day Wedge. Watch out for Big Red. Don't let his moustache fool you. You may be asked to shoot a movie with him and it won't be pretty as the cabin is cramped and his hair screems bow-chicka-bow-chika..........
iluka - Jun 27, 2005 2:50 am
Route Climbed: North Arrete Date Climbed: June 26, 2005A great ridge run with a lot of exposure
albertawind - Jun 15, 2005 2:01 am
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: ManyI've been up Wedge many times, but only up the North Ridge once. It was a beautiful climb, and well worth the hike to get there. I had a fall half way up. Had an old pair of leather climbing boots and my crampons didn't fit perfectly - so there you go. Stupid mistake but I was still a novice.
Bill562 - Nov 3, 2003 3:39 pm
Route Climbed: Trail up to Wedgemont Lake Date Climbed: August 2001Hiking the trail
JasonCamp - Nov 27, 2002 3:09 pm
Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: July 1996A good climb. The snow was not stable einough for us to decend the way we came up so we traveresed the summit and made our way down the west side. Up over hill and dale saw us back to the cabin and eventually the car.
Good stuff.