It's a mega classic for a reason- long day but so so worth it. Had an electrical storm chase us off the summit, thankfully Zeus only teased us this day...best to camp at East Creek Basin and start there- it's a long day.
setrent - Aug 3, 2015 7:03 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2015
Beckey/Chouinard
East Creek to summit in 12 hours. Route is very aesthetic and sustained; it's place in the 50 classics is well deserved. Partner led the 5.10 finger crack variation; sustained and intimidating! New bolted rap route (see "Friends of Bugaboo Park" Facebook page) can be done with a single 60M cord, but watch your ends. Some of the raps are no kidding right at 30M!
MtnMagic - Apr 28, 2014 8:15 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2012
Stellar
Climbed from the East Creek. Lots of fun. Fixed rappels make the descent a breeze. Getting over the shrund was not a problem at tall. Stopped for a couple of hours above the crux pitch to let a group pass (see Vitaliy's post), then passed the other group higher up. High quality, incredible atmosphere. The first 10-11 pitches fly by but the next two or three pitches up the headwall are significantly more sustained.
Vitaliy M. - Aug 19, 2012 3:10 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2012
SUPERB
Swong leads with Bryan. Our first time in Bugs. 18 hours Applebee to Applebee. Passed 2 parties, one of which spent full 2.5 days on the route. Amazing sunset was witnessed after we finished the raps down the back side.
MichaelJ - Aug 18, 2010 12:26 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2010
Like a great Yosemite route only with glaciers
Left Applebee around 4, climbing by 7:30, summit at 6. Climbed with Brian, who was nice enough to let me lead the whole thing. My third trip to Canada and fourth time hiking up to the Bugs to try this thing. Great fun.
A great climb on a beautiful buttress - well deserved in it's place as one of the 50 classics. Don't underestimate this climb - it's long and bad weather can cause havoc.
hunterslee - Sep 9, 2018 9:05 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2018
It doesn't get any Better!It's a mega classic for a reason- long day but so so worth it. Had an electrical storm chase us off the summit, thankfully Zeus only teased us this day...best to camp at East Creek Basin and start there- it's a long day.
setrent - Aug 3, 2015 7:03 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2015
Beckey/ChouinardEast Creek to summit in 12 hours. Route is very aesthetic and sustained; it's place in the 50 classics is well deserved. Partner led the 5.10 finger crack variation; sustained and intimidating! New bolted rap route (see "Friends of Bugaboo Park" Facebook page) can be done with a single 60M cord, but watch your ends. Some of the raps are no kidding right at 30M!
MtnMagic - Apr 28, 2014 8:15 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2012
StellarClimbed from the East Creek. Lots of fun. Fixed rappels make the descent a breeze. Getting over the shrund was not a problem at tall. Stopped for a couple of hours above the crux pitch to let a group pass (see Vitaliy's post), then passed the other group higher up. High quality, incredible atmosphere. The first 10-11 pitches fly by but the next two or three pitches up the headwall are significantly more sustained.
Vitaliy M. - Aug 19, 2012 3:10 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2012
SUPERBSwong leads with Bryan. Our first time in Bugs. 18 hours Applebee to Applebee. Passed 2 parties, one of which spent full 2.5 days on the route. Amazing sunset was witnessed after we finished the raps down the back side.
MichaelJ - Aug 18, 2010 12:26 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2010
Like a great Yosemite route only with glaciersLeft Applebee around 4, climbing by 7:30, summit at 6. Climbed with Brian, who was nice enough to let me lead the whole thing. My third trip to Canada and fourth time hiking up to the Bugs to try this thing. Great fun.
bfrench - Apr 28, 2009 10:39 am
Becky/ChouinardClimbed in a day from applebee dome. Awesome route.
AJones - Mar 28, 2009 9:06 pm
Classic and SustainedA great climb on a beautiful buttress - well deserved in it's place as one of the 50 classics. Don't underestimate this climb - it's long and bad weather can cause havoc.