Primrose on Moses and Becky Chouinard on South Howser added to SP in one week...better be careful or someone might mistake SP for a climbing site! Cheers AJ
Your comment made me laugh out loud (..might mistake SP for a climbing site). I did Lotus Flower Tower last week as well - so that's 3 classics in two weeks... Now if I could only get rid of this cold so I could actually climb (going to do some ice tommorow though) AJ
1. On the pitch that takes you to the sandy ledge: Most topos call it 5.8. I moved into a crack system around a corner to the right, climbed delicately around a loose block, then busted into some sustained jamming until I could stem into a second crack. Jam through a roof (5.10), onto a small ledge, climb twin cracks to the big sandy ledge, move belay left to start of wide crack. Probably a variation but this was one of the best pitches on the route.
2. There are two fixed pins protecting the tension traverse. A little further along you can also get a bomber .4 into a crack before turning the corner. I've seen the free rating as both 9+ and 10+. I think the former.
3. The new rap route. There are posters with topos all over the place (hut, Applebee, etc). Worth taking a picture. The crux is finding the station on the north ridge. You want to rap diagonally down the ridge, not down the north face or west face. You don't see the chains until you reach a good ledge, then you're looking at then at eye level. Two more raps down a corner facing toward Central Howser puts you on a huge ledge. Rap horizontally down the ledge, over a block onto the west face. Straight down from here. Raps are supposedly set up for a single 60. We used a 70, so can't say how much you might have to stretch a 60.
Dow Williams - Mar 31, 2009 4:11 pm - Voted 10/10
fantastic add...Primrose on Moses and Becky Chouinard on South Howser added to SP in one week...better be careful or someone might mistake SP for a climbing site! Cheers AJ
AJones - Mar 31, 2009 7:08 pm - Hasn't voted
Ha!Your comment made me laugh out loud (..might mistake SP for a climbing site). I did Lotus Flower Tower last week as well - so that's 3 classics in two weeks... Now if I could only get rid of this cold so I could actually climb (going to do some ice tommorow though) AJ
MichaelJ - Aug 18, 2010 1:21 pm - Hasn't voted
Great pageA few things:
1. On the pitch that takes you to the sandy ledge: Most topos call it 5.8. I moved into a crack system around a corner to the right, climbed delicately around a loose block, then busted into some sustained jamming until I could stem into a second crack. Jam through a roof (5.10), onto a small ledge, climb twin cracks to the big sandy ledge, move belay left to start of wide crack. Probably a variation but this was one of the best pitches on the route.
2. There are two fixed pins protecting the tension traverse. A little further along you can also get a bomber .4 into a crack before turning the corner. I've seen the free rating as both 9+ and 10+. I think the former.
3. The new rap route. There are posters with topos all over the place (hut, Applebee, etc). Worth taking a picture. The crux is finding the station on the north ridge. You want to rap diagonally down the ridge, not down the north face or west face. You don't see the chains until you reach a good ledge, then you're looking at then at eye level. Two more raps down a corner facing toward Central Howser puts you on a huge ledge. Rap horizontally down the ledge, over a block onto the west face. Straight down from here. Raps are supposedly set up for a single 60. We used a 70, so can't say how much you might have to stretch a 60.