There's a couple of other ways to do the west buttress route. The spine of the west buttress disappears into a 4th class headwall near the top. I haven't done this yet, but I know someone who has. Another way (that I've taken) is to traverse left (north) at the point where the ridge goes into the headwall across the adjacent couloir to the slabs near the summit. There's a couple of easy class 4 moves to get out of the couloir and class 3 to the summit from there.
It is also possible to descend (or ascend, I suppose) via the south ridge to "W" couloir (look at a picture, you'll know why it's called that.), and then down the couloir to the base of the mountain. The couloir forks a short distance from the "W", and either fork goes, but they're both pretty steep. You don't need a rope or rack for the west buttress, or "W", but a helmet wouldn't be a bad idea.
I did the West Buttress today (Sept.). There is no bushwhacking on the approach-- there is a good trail all the way to the talus field at the base of the peak. There was very little loose rock on the route- very nice slabby quartzite. I basically stayed on the "spine" up until the "headwall". The climbing never exceeds 4th class, but I suppose you could make it harder at a few spots. Novices will want a rope. It would be deadly for anybody if wet. Only an idiot would climb this or anything else in the San Juans without a helmet. The descent down the N ridge is unpleasant-- this is a lot easier with snow on it (e.g., in spring, after doing Naked Lady).
Evil Jesus - Jan 28, 2006 4:52 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThere's a couple of other ways to do the west buttress route. The spine of the west buttress disappears into a 4th class headwall near the top. I haven't done this yet, but I know someone who has. Another way (that I've taken) is to traverse left (north) at the point where the ridge goes into the headwall across the adjacent couloir to the slabs near the summit. There's a couple of easy class 4 moves to get out of the couloir and class 3 to the summit from there.
It is also possible to descend (or ascend, I suppose) via the south ridge to "W" couloir (look at a picture, you'll know why it's called that.), and then down the couloir to the base of the mountain. The couloir forks a short distance from the "W", and either fork goes, but they're both pretty steep. You don't need a rope or rack for the west buttress, or "W", but a helmet wouldn't be a bad idea.
Rclee - Sep 3, 2011 3:58 pm - Hasn't voted
Confusion?I did the West Buttress today (Sept.). There is no bushwhacking on the approach-- there is a good trail all the way to the talus field at the base of the peak. There was very little loose rock on the route- very nice slabby quartzite. I basically stayed on the "spine" up until the "headwall". The climbing never exceeds 4th class, but I suppose you could make it harder at a few spots. Novices will want a rope. It would be deadly for anybody if wet. Only an idiot would climb this or anything else in the San Juans without a helmet. The descent down the N ridge is unpleasant-- this is a lot easier with snow on it (e.g., in spring, after doing Naked Lady).