West Face via White Couloir Climber's Log

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AlpineExpeditions - Jun 18, 2020 11:54 am Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2020

Doable but dangerous, especially for inexperienced climbers.  Sucess!

If this peak was solid it would be a classic but everything is loose, unpleasant and dangerous. River crossing required sandals and crossing strong river current up to close to your knees (mid-June). Couloir on the upper part of the mountain was a good steep snow climb (this was one of few enjoyable parts). Average angle of the upper gulley was 45 with sections of 50+ degrees. Bringing two ice axes made for a more straight forward ascent and descent (if you know how to use and self arrest with two axes). Summit ridge is not an easy hike like the description totally incorrectly describes. Technically that is where the class 3 moves are! (though climbing it in snow, the degree of steepness of the gully is also considered by most class 3) The moves on the summit ridge are easy but the quality of rock is so bad that they are dangerous. The ridge is also quite exposed. The whole mountain is very steep. A fall on the whole upper part without arresting yourself immediately is most likely fatal but the terrain is no harder than class 3 if the correct line is followed. I would not recommend this peak to anyone unless they are experienced mountaineers (with rock climbing experience and steep snow experience if you are going to do it in snow) and they want to finish the Centennial 13ers or if for some strange reason they like danger in a route that is neither notably technical nor aesthetic.
WARNING: This is the kind of peak that attracts sandbaggers! Watch out for descriptions that say it was "easy", "not so steep", "not that dangerous". Even though this peak has very few annual ascents compared to any 14er or Centennial 13ers it has had fatalities. It is specially dangerous for unexperienced climbers.


benners - Feb 23, 2011 3:23 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2008

Loose  Sucess!

Descended this gully after traversing to Thunder from Pyramid. Light traffic over the years has left lots of loose, crumbly rock ready to be trundled off the route. Use caution if climbing this route and look for climbers above you!


shanahan96 - Jul 16, 2007 9:58 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2007

snowy white gully  Sucess!

reaped the benefits of climbing the white gully as a snow climb to avoid being bashed by rockfall. like kiefer said, not as steep as expected(35-37 degrees average).



Kiefer - Jun 28, 2007 1:25 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2007

Decent snow climb  Sucess!

Did this as a fairly decent snow climb. Expecting a steeper pitch but stayed fairly consistant throughout. Probably a different story when its snow free.
Definately enjoyable though!

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