Great climb with Chad. Incredible views and photos. Went on to do Panic Pillar after.
With Kevin from Las Vegas. I led all the pitches. Can't imagine why anyone would do the original over the direct. The supposed 5.10 section is not 5.10 by most Yosemite standards and should not stand in the way of 5.9 leaders. One foot out right and you have a hand jam. The first three pitches are excellent in a super setting. The 4th is a junker. The 5th can be what ever you want it to be, right 5.10 fingers/hands overhang, middle, 5.9 OW flake, left 5.8 rib. It turns out to be a better pitch than you think it is going to be. Good route, I like it better than 3rd Pillar on Dana overall. Same length, same kind of approach.
With Stephanie and Rob, who aced the 10b section. I got p2 and the p5 offwidth... burly and awkward.
Awesome first few pitches. We had to wait a while for the group before us, so we rapped off partway through the climb to meet up with another group.
excellent climb to ourselves while the swarms were on Cathedral. Wife led the crux in fine style (as usual) and were were down for lunch with storm clouds brewing.
After spending most of the summer in South America and not doing any technical rock for a couple of months, I needed a reintroduction to Yosemite climbing and the Direct Variation fit the bill. Couldn't find the stem-around on the off width, which spat me out on the first attempt. The supposed layback crux wasn't too hard at all. No one else on the route. Climbed with Liz, who, as usual, hiked the OW crux and made me look bad. After lunch on the summit we soloed up to Cathedral Peak. A pretty good day.