Wheeler Peak / Northwest...

Wheeler Peak / Northwest Couloir. Grade III, 5.4. Snow / ice up to 50 degrees. Northwest Arete to the right of the couloir. 6/26/05

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Sam Mills

Sam Mills - Jul 7, 2005 1:30 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Did

No. We passed under it on the way to an attempt on the West Arete. Don't know how much snow/ice will be left in it this fall, so I'll probably give it a try next spring. Nice looking couloir though.



I couldn't find much information on technical routes for this peak, so I don't know the name of the arete you're talking about (if there even is a offical name). The West Arete is the ridge going up the right skyline.



- S

Sam Mills

Sam Mills - Jul 7, 2005 5:36 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Did

Clydascope,



We couldn't find a class 4 start just right of the streaks, so I took a 5.6 / 5.7 line up one pitch. I ran into a loose, hard to protect 5.7 ish section with no way around (at my climbing level). After bouncing a few melon size boulders off the rocks near matthew at the belay, I backed off.



After down climbing a ways, than being lowered back to the belay and getting things cleaned up, it was close to 11:00 am, so we bailed. This was the last day of several days of climbing, and I still had a long drive home. I was hoping to be up and off the climb by 3 or 4:00 pm and it was obvious that wasn't going to happen.



I was going to e-mail you to get a some information, but I'll use this opportunity. Your route page says to traverse class 3-4 ledges below the two branches of the wishbone. In the picture below, I marked our route in red. Matthew mentioned it then, and the more I look at the pictures, the more I agree with him, should we have continued more to the right and climbed near line B? Or, even further around the toe of the arete and climbed up the area marked by line C?



I hope this makes sense and thanks for any insight.



Sam Mills

Sam Mills - Jul 7, 2005 8:03 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Did

Can you add this photo the page and I'll attach it to the route page for clarification?



Chris,



I'll change "our route" to line A and add it to the West Arete route page. Thanks for the input.



-S



Sam Mills

Sam Mills - Dec 1, 2005 9:14 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Did

Doug,



I edited the picture to include the NW Arete.



-S

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