Sorry you didn't get to go to the summit, but your partner's health is much more important. There is always a next time.
Re the HAPE, from my few years in the high hills, those who get it at 14,000-15,000', usually don't do well in repeated trips. Once people find severe symptoms at 12-14,000', the high hills (over 20K) are really not feasible for them, even with the various medications available. This malady just repeats itself and the person is putting him/herself into pretty serious danger especially on remote peaks.
How right you are, it's always better to go slow and last longer.
Cheers and good climbing, Alois.
Ahoj a mockrat dik. You are so right, I think some of us have better genetics for mountains than others. I hope you are well and please let me know if any plans visiting Colorado.
Very useful information. Thanks for posting.