Whitney Glacier Route

Mount Shasta - Whitney Glacier Route. V1 variant traverses beneath the upper icefall and crosses the bergschrund to access Misery Hill above Casval Ridge and the Red Banks. Photo taken January 19, 2007

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rhyang

rhyang - Jan 22, 2007 3:05 am - Hasn't voted

Hmm...

The pic seems to show one possible route. Strictly speaking by heading up over the bergschrund to the top of Casaval Ridge / the Red Banks you skip the last part of the Whitney Glacier, which ascends the 'backside' of Misery Hill.

There is a route page for the Whitney Glacier here.

btw When did you climb this route ?

MtnAv8r

MtnAv8r - Jan 22, 2007 4:08 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Hmm...

Attempted route about 8 years ago. Turned back by rockfall below the lower icefall. Goal is to complete this route this year. Thanks for the tip on bypassing the schrund and misery hill.

Zzyzx - Jan 22, 2007 8:20 am - Voted 10/10

Re: Hmm...

I second what Rob said. Please, attach it to the route page, so it can be easily found by anyone interested.
You may want to add to the route page a description of the approach to the base camp. We started at Northgate, camped below Bolam glacier and then traversed to Whitney glacier, but I know this isn't the standard approach to the route (although probably easier).
Nice photo. Looking forward to more of your pics!
Cheers, Kris

MtnAv8r

MtnAv8r - Jan 25, 2007 4:05 am - Hasn't voted

UPDATED

Updated route per information provided by rhyang. The route I attempted in 99 would have concluded with V1, however as rhyang has noted, this bypasses the upper glacier and joins another route.

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