Started in Hochstubaihutte. Via the East Ridge. Ridge itself is good climbing! There are a total of 4 bolts on the route, protecting mainly the crux sections. Two are in the half-way crux (UAII IV) and other two at the summit block (UAII III+).
DO NOT DESCEND THE SOUTH FACE. Thats my only message. The red markings are misleading. The south face is not the descend route. It is filled with sketchy rappels that may or may not hold. Just don't do it. It took us 4 hours to rapell it. We were back at the hut 15 hours after leaving, eating some bad weather along the way.
Tugrul - Oct 15, 2023 1:55 pm
Long DayStarted in Hochstubaihutte. Via the East Ridge. Ridge itself is good climbing! There are a total of 4 bolts on the route, protecting mainly the crux sections. Two are in the half-way crux (UAII IV) and other two at the summit block (UAII III+).
DO NOT DESCEND THE SOUTH FACE. Thats my only message. The red markings are misleading. The south face is not the descend route. It is filled with sketchy rappels that may or may not hold. Just don't do it. It took us 4 hours to rapell it. We were back at the hut 15 hours after leaving, eating some bad weather along the way.
MikeLJ - Apr 2, 2018 1:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 1986
South faceClimbed as part of an Alpine Mountaineering course with the Austrian Alpine Association
rgg - Jul 13, 2012 11:51 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2012
East ridgeIn the morning, the weather looked as if it might turn bad, but we enjoyed a beautiful day.
Mister White - Apr 17, 2006 6:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2001
East ridgeInteresting rockclimb over the ridge. Nice day out, but the weather became very poor. We were pretty wet when we reached the hut again.
David_Holland - Jan 22, 2004 2:04 pm
Route Climbed: East ridge Date Climbed: 16-07-2003Long day, nice climb, straight over the Eastridge!