I've added the warning. When did you discover the missing bolts? Are the anchors also gone?
I think it was around 2002, they might be replaced now. I used the anchors on top of Epitaph wall to descend. My guess is that Ganactic was the first route to the summit of Epitaph, and that the bolts were pulled out after they rap bolted the routes on Epitaph. Should ask Troy Mayr about that sometime.
Thanks. Next time I'm up there I'll check it out.
In your route notes, could you please add that the bolts on the top half of Ganactic have been CHOPPED? You might save a life. It was one of the worst inadvertant free solos of my life. At one point I remember screaming 'I came out here to sport climb not to die!'. I wasn't proud, just scared s***less. Anyway, if you could include a warning for Ganatic on your route page to save other whimpy sport climbers (like myself) the excitement of unexpected free soloing....
The Angeles National Forest has closed the road prior to Williamson Rocks in an effort to keep climbers out of the area because they want to protect these endangered frogs that are apparently hanging out there.
The area is not officially closed YET, but it may close soon. You can park up the road, its about a 1/2 mile to 1 mile walk along it to the trailheads mentioned in the descriptions here. A bike makes the trip fairly simple, and you can just chain it up somewhere at the top of the hill.
Ouch!!! I hadn't heard that. Does the FS have something on the web I can check out for details?
Sorry I havent responded for a while. Darren at Newcombs Ranch informed me that Cal-Trans controls the gate, not the Forest Service. They are, more or less, keeping it closed as a 'favor' to the forest service. If you contact them, they will tell you its closed.
Cal-Trans apparently 'accidentally' keeps it open for long periods of times, particularly during the week. My advice would be to call Newcombs Ranch, ask for Darren, and see if he knows if its open. He is a freaking geyser of information. www.newcombsranch.com
Sure, it's possible to get past the gate, but doing so would be an act of bad faith on the part of the climbing community, and might well have a negative impact on long-term access to the area.
Heres the press release; interpret it as you will. Ultimately, though, contacting Newcombs Ranch has always provided a realistic opinion to the area I plan on visiting. If they REALLY dont care if you go there, Newcombs will let you know.
ARCADIA, CA: December 23, 2005
In order to protect critical habitat of the mountain yellow-legged frog, the U.S. Forest Service will temporarily limit access to approximately 1,000 acres in the area north of the Angeles Crest Highway (SR 2) in the vicinity of Cooper Canyon beginning Tuesday, December 27, 2005. This includes Williamson Rock, an area frequented by rock climbers.
At the request of the Angeles National Forest, the California Department of Transportation (Caltrans) will lock the gate at Cedar Springs (near milepost 62 on SR 2), east of the turn-off to Buckhorn Campground and west of the tunnels. Access to Eagles Roost Picnic Area will be walk-in only.
This effort allows the U.S. Forest Service to follow the guidelines for protecting the habitat of the mountain yellow-legged frog, an endangered species. Specifically, a Biological Assessment will be undertaken to analyze the effects of human activities (including recreation) within the area which is proposed to be designated as critical habitat by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service per the Endangered Species Act.
The Angeles Crest Highway, which is administered by Caltrans, has been closed to through traffic (connecting Wrightwood) since the fall of 2004, due to storm damage. By assisting the Forest Service with restricting use of the highway, an additional mile and a half of the road will be added to the normal seasonal closure.
A portion of the Pacific Crest Trail lies within the impacted area. Hikers can take a detour around the area by departing the trail (northbound) at Eagles Roost and taking the highway to Cloudburst Summit, a distance of 4.5 miles. The U.S. Forest Service has also been meeting with members of the rock climbing community to work on a proposal that may allow climbing to eventually continue at Williamson Rock.
“We look forward to working with these groups,” said Angeles National Forest Supervisor Jody Noiron. “Hopefully, we can arrive at a solution that can allow the recreational activities to continue while conserving the frog habitat. Both are part of our mission.” The Angeles National Forest is located northeast of Los Angeles. It is approximately 655,000 acres in size and includes the San Gabriel Mountains.