Willow Canyon

Page Type
Utah, United States, North America
Route Type:
Time Required:
Most of a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.3 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

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Willow Canyon
Created On: Apr 30, 2010
Last Edited On: Apr 30, 2010

Route Description

Walk up the Forest Service Trail between houses. Soon you hit a dirt road. Left is somebody’s driveway, to the right is where you want to go. Follow this road until you hit a dam that restricts flooding. Follow a trail above the pond as it works its way up Willow Canyon. The trail eventually disappears at a small waterfall and washout. Climb up at this point on the left, at first in trees, and then scrub brush until you reach the ridge at 6,600 feet. Follow the ridge up, doing your best to avoid brushy areas. Inevitably you will do a little bushwhacking. Around 7,600 feet, the trees start and scrub oak is gone. Follow the ridge up to the false summit at 9,105 or traverse just below it. Walk across the saddle and up steeply through forest to a vertical rock wall. We dropped down to the right, around the rock wall to an easy scramble up a steep ramp. Above this point were on super steep slopes through the trees. Crampons would have been nice. The second obstacle we harnessed up for, a 30 foot rocky face with a bit of exposure. Above this, we were able to traverse over toward the west ridge of the summit. One final belay up another rocky chimney for 70 feet and we were on the west ridge. We climbed up the final 100 easy feet to the summit. With the poor conditions, I was not able to look down the ridge toward American Fork Canyon but map contours show it being easier. Elevation gain: 3,837 feet

First ObstacleFirst Obstacle

Third Obstacle3rd Obstacle

Steep ForestSteep Forested Slopes

Getting There

Drive north into Alpine from SR-92 on 5300 West. In Alpine, take 100 S going east. Cross S 800 E where the road becomes E Village Way. Follow this to the end, take a right on N County Manor Lane, then a quick left on E Preston Drive. This becomes North Preston Drive and dead-ends. Look for a small Forest Service sign and trail. Road names seem to change often here, print a mapquest map before heading out.

Essential Gear

In snow, bring ice axe, snowshoes and crampons. 100+ feet of rope for this route will give you the most flexibility. There could be a way around the obstacles we encountered but chances are you'll want one.
From 6600 feetRoute at 6600 feet

From 6800 feetFrom 6800 feet

From 8800 feetFrom 8800 feet

Near SummitLast 300 feet near summit