Glorious rock, excellent exposure, and sweet simul-climbing led us up this cruiser in 2hrs from the point we roped up. Tasty!
Second time on the East Ridge, two hours from the rope up at the saddle, then we hiked out that afternoon. We rapped a couloir to the southwest instead of the normal descent. Only recommended if you're bored.
A testimate to my luck as a young man. At the time I did not understand layering or insulation nor did I realize how stupid little I had brought (snickers bar, quart of water, a windproof but non water proof parka) I am lucky the weather held!
Penelope May and I climbed the fabulous East Ridge in August of 2005. We found this route absolutely wonderful climbing, with all the features that "a real" classic should have. Memorable climb.
This is hands-down my favorite 5.6 mountain route. I climbed it with bthere on a 2-month trip to the winds. The exposure is amazing, the rock is even better. Highly recommended!
East Ridge, 7/22/94, 8/23/00
South Face, Right Center (the 10b route), 8/19/96
The sidewalk to the sky is amazing...
Super classic with huge exposure. For a shorter day, leave the rope on your back most of the time. We pitched out too much of the route, and so it took us all day. Also, my partner didn't like the chimney bit and led us over the ridge on a thin hands crack, neglecting to place any pro for my downclimb. Yikes! Descent was a bit convoluted, but it was still a blast. Later in the week we watched some folks have an epic on this route -- headlamps high on the ridge line. Start early, climb fast.
Shirley and I did this during our 5-day stay in the Cirque. We did this after taking a day's break (mostly to dry the ropes and junk) following our climb of NE Face of Warbonnet. Woke up at about 3:30am and were hiking by 4am. Less then an hour later we were standing under the "class 4 ledges" (this is an option suggested by Kelsey guide and not the 50 Classics book). Did the ledges roped. These were I think the crux of the whole climb - real nasty "climbing" on what is more realistically a ~5.4 terrain (water dripping on you, slippery grass....really sh***y place). The weather was not looking up with dark clouds covering the western sky. Got to the base of the slab (beginning of E. Ridge proper) and felt a bit of a drizzle. The thought of committing to ~10 ridge pitches did not look appealing. Backed off, rapped back to the "snowpatch" ledge.
As we were setting up the next rap, the sky began clearing!! Amazingly, within 15 minutes all the clouds were gone and we saw blue skies and sunshine. This was too hard to pass up!! Another party (guide + client) came up and decided they were going to go for it. We decided to go for it too. Reached the "flat" portion of the ridge in two pitches including one long simul-climb pitch up easy terrain. From there we mostly did "standard" pitches with a few sections of simulclimbing to stretch the rope a bit.
Wonderful route!! The hand traverses LOOKED intimidating but turned out to be quite easy once on them. The weather window kept until we did our last rap back to the notch bet. Wolfs Head and Overhanging Tower....then all hell broke loose with lightning and thunder.....Fed up with the weather, hiked out next day and drove to Devil's Tower.
We met new friends in the Cirque and climbed this route with them. One of my favorite climbs of all time. At this writing, I leave tomorrow for another week in the Cirque. This one will go again, I think.
With Dad Sherman, Isa & Ranjeet. Wild climb!
We need some pics here to show what a fantastic sidewalk size ridge the Wolf's head offers!
A fun tour with Natalie,
Was a scary climb. Great view of Lonesome lake.