Silvio and I made a try from a high camp at 5500 meters. The right and left sides of the face were a horror show of seracs and cornices but a direct line up the face looked relatively safe. We crossed the ´schrund on the far right and did a long traverse on neve below a serac band to gain our line, which was 60 degree ice. After a pitch my partner felt bad so we bailed. Two days later we were bivied directly across the way on Rasac at 4 a.m. when we watched an avalanche take out the start of the route at precisely the time we had been there 48 hours before.
long, cool, comitting climb on hard ice mostly.
23h return to morain camp.
david bruder, niv scott